I'm a little curious about how everyone does their wiring in their cars.

Mine is a little bit of everything but now it's in the process of being all soldered wires or weather pack connectors.

So do you guys use Vampire Connectors, Butt Connectors, T-Taps?
Weather pack connectors, or soldering all the wires?

And for the guys that do the soldering ... what do you use. Soldering Iron (wattage), soldering gun?

Grounds. Inside the car ... shared ground point? Multiple?

Power. Do you tap power or run a new power from the battery with an inline fuse?

I'm currently rewiring all of the aftermarket accessories in my car (gauges, PF, wb02, TT, EBC). I got a 3 block fuse panel to use just for that purpose. This is so that all wiring can be collapsed do to simplify it. So I'm using 1 since power to the battery, another wire to ignition only power, and a couple of grounds. Simple.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

Ideally, and this is just how I'd do it if I truly gave a damn, I'd have three distribution blocks set up - constant 12VDC, switched 12VDC, and ground. For each, I would use one of those little plastic strips with the two rows of screws that are divided by plastic to keep things clean. Then you could get away with using spade-type crimp-on connectors.

Basically, you'd run a clean, fused 12VDC into tha cabin and terminate it with a block like this. Do the same for a switched 12VDC and a clean ground. Then all you'd have to do is crimp and connect. Since everything had it's own connection, you could draw up a simple schematic showing what is connected where. Furthermore, if you wanted to remove a single accessory, you could do so without messing with anything else.

Of course, there is still the question of current, but unless you're running some kind of ridiculous AV system, you should be fine with something like this for gauges and sensors. You'd run AV separate, imo.

EDIT:

Originally posted by DR1665
Ideally, and this is just how I'd do it if I truly gave a damn, I'd have three distribution blocks set up - constant 12VDC, switched 12VDC, and ground. For each, I would use one of those little plastic strips with the two rows of screws that are divided by plastic to keep things clean. Then you could get away with using spade-type crimp-on connectors. Basically, you'd run a clean, fused 12VDC into tha cabin and terminate it with a block like this. Do the same for a switched 12VDC and a clean ground. Then all you'd have to do is crimp and connect. Since everything had it's own connection, you could draw up a simple schematic showing what is connected where. Furthermore, if you wanted to remove a single accessory, you could do so without messing with anything else. Of course, there is still the question of current, but unless you're running some kind of ridiculous AV system, you should be fine with something like this for gauges and sensors. You'd run AV separate, imo. EDIT:

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

Originally posted by DR1665
Ideally, and this is just how I'd do it if I truly gave a damn, I'd have three distribution blocks set up - constant 12VDC, switched 12VDC, and ground. For each, I would use one of those little plastic strips with the two rows of screws that are divided by plastic to keep things clean. Then you could get away with using spade-type crimp-on connectors. Basically, you'd run a clean, fused 12VDC into tha cabin and terminate it with a block like this. Do the same for a switched 12VDC and a clean ground. Then all you'd have to do is crimp and connect. Since everything had it's own connection, you could draw up a simple schematic showing what is connected where. Furthermore, if you wanted to remove a single accessory, you could do so without messing with anything else. Of course, there is still the question of current, but unless you're running some kind of ridiculous AV system, you should be fine with something like this for gauges and sensors. You'd run AV separate, imo. EDIT:

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

I run main power feeds to common points as required. Sometimes you'll need any combination of these but mostly a switched +12V is all you require.
Constant 12V
Accessory 12V
Start/Run 12V
Run Only 12V


I don't worry about using different grounding points unless you are working with precision voltage references like widebandss etc. I ground to the nearest metal framework and sometimes share multiple grounds just like tha factory harness. I solder whenever possible and heat shrink. I label wires extensively, use grommets at sharp points, use Velcro ties where re-entry is likely (they don't rattle either).
See photos for examples:

Main constant 12VDC feed to trunk area for accessories. Secured and grommets used at pass-throughs. Line is fused off battery with 40A fusible link.


Five fuses added inside main fusebox under hood. Keeps it neat and protected. Power tapped before fusible links.



Fuel sending unit mod. Heat shrunk and labeled.



Fuel pump re-wire. 30A fuse hidden behind armrest support, heavy wiring, wires labeled and secured, relay secured and grounded.


Accessory fuseblock added underdash for current and future gauges requirements.

I ran a power lead from the battery (with an inline fuse of course) to a relay for switched power. From there I used a distrubition block that I got from McMaster Carr, (part number 9290T11). It's a dual bar block with 5 terminals per bar along with studs to connect your power and ground leads...of course one bar was for power and the other for ground connections from all your electronic accessories.

I used crimp connectors and soldered them as well for insurance. As far as a soldering iron goes, just a small one from a hardware store or what have you will suffice.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1185

I'm actually in the process of rewiring Dave_FL's ghetto wiring job... I'm running a single, fused 4ga from the battery to center console distribution block. Distribution splits off additional 8ga for gauges, etc. and 4ga continues on with second (slightly smaller) fuse for amps, etc.

Due to the wiring funkiness, I've decided to fuse everything individually... found this (use two of them):

http://wirewerksperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=20

Also, I'm all about quick-disconnects these days, so I use this also:

http://wirewerksperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14&products_id=35

My '99 just has the wires directly into the relays, but I think it's nicer this way on my '97.

Using Stinger everything now on the '97 instead of walmart specials...
- J

::updated::

What do you guys tap for the switched relays?

- J

Just an FYI ... don't let a hot soldering iron touch fall on the back of your hand. It hurts! Trust me.

Thanks for the ideas guys. Good stuff. I'd continue my rewiring if my hand didn't hurt like hell. I'll take pictures of my rewire as well.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

Been rerouting wires in engine bay to clean up the spaghetti...

For those who don't have a stock airbox, I found that if you remove the ECU & push aside the fusebox from engine bay, you can mount power distribution, fuses, alarm sirens, etc. on the underside of the metal bracket. There is a pretty big space under there for goodies (just don't plan on easy access).

There's an unused screw hole on the driver's strut tower. I bought a strip of aluminum, aluminum conduit clips, and some rivets to run all wires in conduit clipped all the way up the strut tower using that bolt behind the battery and color coded with electrical tape.

My goal is to make my engine bay look like stock (except for turbo & piping) with as much hidden as possible.

Also because I'm all about heat control these days, I run all wires that get even remotely close to turbo, dp, etc. in DEI's Cool Tube. It's expensive but very, very nice stuff. Fiberglass conduit gaurds up to 500'.

http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=46

I'm still all about quick disconnects in the car, but I do like the Cold Heat Pro for soldering. Takes a lil bit to get used to but quite handy. Got two of them and normal radio shack solder & desolder guns.

azdave, your electronics continue to impress... what kind of label maker do you use? All my labels seem to fall off after a while. So only in-car wires labelled

- J

- J