Hi, i'm having a problme with my car, well i just finish to install turbo, every thing was working ok, but after my battery got drain down, the cause my alternator ( the voltage was going up and down), but when the engine was working, i was hearing a little noise inside the computer, like popcorn sound, not to loud.... while i was woorking with the safc II, when i disconect the safc II the sound still, so i tryed to crank whith the batt' in 11.37 V. but i can't get it to start it. My question is did i burn my computer or is just the low batt'. some one knows how to test my computer. i check the relays and are ok, the cam sensor have the same Ohms as new sensor, and i can get voltage in the wiring, i did the test same as explain in the manual of how to test the cam and crank sensor, but a note one thing, the first time i made the test in the wiring to check voltage i got the right voltage, but i did it again next day and i just got a little voltage. I'll try first changing the alternator them jumping the batt'. I hope it work. i also i'd read in this site about a cable that goes under the stock air intake, some one knows how it looks like? .

thank.

Where are you from and what model is you car. Our ECU's rarely go out, it happens, but not often. Now the turbocharged models have had problems associated with the capacitors in the ECU's, but mostly on the first gen. models. Now the reason I ask where you are from is because there are N/A models of the Eclipse in Europe and elsewhere that run a 4G63 sans turbo, and I would assume they would be subject to the same concerns as the turbo models. It's also posible that if you have the Spyder than it may have the same types of concerns. As for a cable under the intake, the only relevent one I can think of is the bundle that runs under the throttle body near the EGR pipe, that has been known to make contact with the pipe and melt the wires, causing all types of headaches. I don't know why you would hear sounds from the ECU, did you smell anything burning, that's my clue that something is going screwy, are you sure it was the ECU?

First things first, try to jump start the car, if this doesn't work then you know the problem is something more than a simple battery and alternator. Next, check the alternator and replace it if neccesary. After that jump start the car again and see if it will run. Then check to make sure the battery is holding a charge. If it's not holding a charge while the car is off, you have either a bad battery or a draw in the system (like a short or something is left on) try another battery, one that you know is good (I have yet to suggest buying another battery yet because there is no need to replace things if they aren't bad/broke). If the car doesn't start or hold a charge in another battery, you probalby have a draw in the system. At that point, come back to us and report your findings, we can work from there.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Also, next time you post, take a little more time and read over your post. My third grade cousin has better english then you, lol.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Well, my car start it, but after 3 mnts i got this code p1297 (manufacturer cntrl, fuel air metering) this is because i did not set the Safc II? and when the engine light show up, i start having high idle like 1500rpm. but when the engine was cold my idle was going up and down between 800-1200rpm with like 15 psi of vacuum, after i got into 1500rpm the vacuum increase at over 24 psi, i set the SafcII in sensor type i select pressure 07 07 ,not karman. what is the right setup with the S afcII for my car 95 gs 5 speed? and who can i fix this problem? thank

the safc doesn't control idle,but it sounds like your idle air control valve it broke,mine has done that i couple if times,i live in a dusty area and it gets all kinds of dirty. i would check that first