Are aluminum underdrive pulleys worth getting. And will they crack or anything when you hammer them on. and what the best way to get that pull y on? everytime i put the stock pulley on i gotta hammer that shit for like 2 hours.

heres the one i was gonna get..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99-Eclipse-Non-Turbo-NT-UNDERDRIVE-PULLEY-96-97-98_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38656QQihZ008QQitemZ180020477027QQrdZ1

Yes they are worth getting.. Just not sure about that specific one, LOL. Remember with Ebay you get what you pay for. AFX and Unorthodox have proven to be worthwhile companies and make reputable parts. They won't crack when you put them on, and no you don't use a hammer.. remember you are talking about your crank here. You remove your old one with a 3 jaw puller and the new one will go on when you use the bolt to tighten it down to correct TQ spec. There is a write up on the main page how to install one.

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Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

I installed my in the dead of winter and never heated it up and it slid right on while I was cranking down the bolt. Of course it was already used once before so that might make a slight difference. I think the writeup mentions the oven method.

BTW.. here is the write up.
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=79

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Try bomz racing.I got a light weight underdrive pulley off them for 100 bucks with free shipping.Its been great so far.Great quality too.Ive had it for quite a while now with no prob whatsoever.When I rebuilt my motor I had to take it off and reinstall.I thought I might scew it up,But no problems.As far as performance,Your car will rev much quicker.Here is a link..check them out.You cant get a better pulley for that kinda money anywhere....Pulleys for our cars are at the bottom of this page....Hope this helps...BTW,I had to fight like hell to get my stock pulley off, until I tried a harmonic balancer puller..Also,If you try a torch to heat it up to get the stock one off like I did,Go easy on the heat.My timing belt broke not too long after due to the fact,I think the heat damaged it...

http://bomzracing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=44

Whatever pulley you buy, be sure that the part that mates to the crankshaft snout is steel. The pulley is supposed to hold onto the crankshaft by an interference fit (pulley opening is slightly smaller than crankshaft snout). That is why you need heat to put it on. If you try to use an interference fit using aluminum against the cast iron crank, you can damage the aluminum every time you install and remove the pulley. Cheaper pulleys won't have a steel insert and most won't try to do an interference fit. So, they have to rely on the crankshaft bolt to keep them from spinning. That is not a reliable strategy. The AFX pulley has a steel insert. The UR pulley looks like it has a steel base. The e-bay one looks like it is only aluminum.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

I have the unorthodox UDP, and it has never given me any problems with installation or removal.

1992 Plymouth Laser
-Bone stock for now.