How long does a oil pump last.
I got my engine out of the car and on the driveway. But i only got 1 leg to use so i dont work much right now so im not making much money
I got about enough money to buy gasket set and head bolts ;<[br />am i taking a serious chance not changing the oil pump because.

Its location is unreal like the water pumps on these cars lol
the engine block has 160k miles on it

Do you really want to tear it back down just to replace the oil pump? I can't imagine it to last longer than 200K.

-K-

So what are the things that i SHOULD change while the engine is down
So far its got a new water pump and i just ordered a oil pump. I got a new oil pan and gasket cause my pans got a bad dent. How long does the timing belt tensioner last?

On this motor, I wouldn't go over the 75k mile timing belt change interval.

When doing the timing belt, I change the tensioner, tensioner pulley, water pump, and idler pulley.

A timing belt wearing out and breaking is catastrophic on our motor.

www.partsdinosaur.com , I LOVE these guys for these OEM parts.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

If the engine is out of the car and you have 160k miles, I would replace (in order of importance)

Mandatory:
1) Timing belt
2) Idler pulleys (x2)
3) Timing belt tensioner bracket
4) Timing belt tensioner
5) Oil pump

Optional, but WILL fail in the next 50k miles:
6) Water pump
7) Headgasket
8) ARP head studs (or modified, brand new OEM head bolts)
9) Valve cover gasket and spark plug seals
10) O2 sensor

The oil pumps on these engines are very reliable. There are only really 2 rotating parts that make it up, they are just 2 metal rotors that turn within each other to pump the oil. Instead of replacing the entire pump/cover assembly, you can order the 2 metal rotors seperatly from the dealer, which really isn't that much. Its maybe 50 bucks for both of them together. The only other parts that make up the pump is the cover itself(which doesnt really wear if the gears never broke or any metal didnt tear it up), is the relief plunger and relief spring. These are really cheap as well from the dealer. You can basically rebuild you pump for less than 75 bucks, compared to 180 for a whole new assembly. I've rebuilt my oil pump, still running super strong...At a minimum, take apart the oil pump(just remove the torx screws holding on the rotor cover on the back side of the housing), and check out the mating surfaces and the rotors for wear. If it all looks good, then just reuse it. Pack in assembly lube in the rotors or vasaline to help prime the oil at first start up.

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$180 for a new OEM pump?

My Melling high flow pump only cost $105 shipped from howell. I thought the Melling was better, lol.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

oil pumps generally last the life of the car. You probably want to change the front seal that's on the oil pump though as that can wear out the one thing that does kill oil pumps is running them dry so if you've ever come into a situation where you did run your engine dry and hopefuly not destroying it you might want to replace it check your oil pressure also.

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

This could be a total moron question but why exactly is it mandatory to replace the idler pulleys and tensioner if there isn't anything wrong with them? It seems like a waste of money as far as I can tell. I could very easily be missing something though.

The pullies spin on precision ball bearings. Should a bearing fail, the pulley will stop spinning. Should the pulley stop spinning, the belt will burn up and snap.

You can save money by purchasing the bearings and replacing just them, but you're going to have to use the search to get more info on that. Compared to the cost of a full engine rebuild, a couple pullies is small price to pay.

Okay so that answers the question about the pullies, but why would I need to replace a functioning tensioner?

(Thanks for the response BTW)

tensioners fail too, I've heard it from mechanics to people on this forum around 100k all that stuff starts to fail. Its better than risking damage to your engine right?

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

Ahhh. See I learn stuff all the time. So about the original question. I'm not sure it has been rectified how long the oil pump should last... has it?

let me ask a question too while we're on oil pumps... when running mad amounts of boost (20+psi), is it necessary to change the oem oil pump to a so called "high flow" style such as melling??

you'd think oil is going to pump as much as the engine needs. just because it's creating more HP, doesnt mean it needs more oil flow... right??

you really dont need insame amounts of flow or pressure. Im still looking for some evidence from the melling ppl that its actually better. Most go for them because they are often cheaper too. Then again theres been stories of some of them failing.

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Oil pumps should last over 120k miles. When it fails, your engine gets damaged badly. So replace it before then, or don't.

No, you don't need a high flow or high pressure oil pump when adding a turbo. It might help, but really, you don't need it.

Don't know how that relates, but my 4G63 oil pump was apart a couple days ago and with about 110K it looks like new...

so I just put new seals

and replaced everything else timing related. All pulleys, harmonic balancer, tensioner, water pump, even the tensioner arm.


BUT at 160K and the engine out of the car, hell of course I'd replace the oil pump

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