so im doing my rebuild for a spun bearing and decide to do the transmission, and axles as well while im going through this work.

since Chiltons sucks balls for actual removal procedures, i follow information here and use Corbins Cv/axle removal write up.

well the part where it sez "Now unbolt the compression lower arm on the chassis side. Its just 2 bolts that run into the chassis."

yeah those TWO !@#%#%& bolts got SHEARED OFF!!
on both sides i have a total of 3 sheared bolts. the one that came out was all pretty and pristine.

yes i soaked the stuff with PBblaster, Aerocroil and didnt help at all.
ill put up pics when i get them from my camera tomorrow

soooo
anybody know how to get them fuckers out?
should i just drill it out? or does anybody have a better idea?

thanks in advance

______________________________________
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"Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it."
"My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."

Best sum up of working on a 2GNT
DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."


Ahhhh Priceless . . .
eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red"
RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"

Get some EZ-Out extractors. If that fails completely you can attempt to drill carefully the center of the bolt out getting progressively bigger drill bits until you have removed as much of the bolt as you can WITHOUT touching the threads. Grab a mini-hacksaw blade and slowly cut through the rest of the bolt wall lengthwise. This will release the pressure and you should be able to extract with a screwdriver.

Alternately you can weld a hexhead bolt onto the sheared off part and try and remove it that way.

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

Jason|1997 Eclipse RS

I contributed to the wiki!

happy p'ple

IN the future you DO NOT NEED TO UNBOLT THE COMPRESSION ARM. just unbolt the lateral arm and your good, i do it all the time since those bolts are good for breaking.

My best advise for you and you will not like it. Remove the crossmember and drill them out. Eazy outs wont work on those bolts, there is little no clearance above them. You can drill them out and retap them with the crossmember in the car but your chances for the drilling being straight are slim.


to remove the crossmember:

*Unbolt brake resevoir bracket
*Remove washer resevoir
*Unbolt rear trans mount (large through bolt going through the mount)
*remove 1 bolt that connects the rack and pinion to the column (next to tranny mount) Slide the small splined clamp off the rack and pinion

*Disconnect steering fluid lines on passenger side of crossmember.
(Note) if you have cruise, you might have to remove the cruise box on the passenger side.

*Unbolt tie rod ends from steering knucle
*Unbolt Driver side compression arm.
*Remove exhaust in front of cat
*Unbolt Lateral arms from crossmember
*Remove centermember (runs front to back under engine)
*Remove the Front swaybar links
*Remove the large Nuts that bolt the crossmember to the chassis.

You should be able to lower the crossmember and slide it out from under the car. Drill any broken bolts and chase the remaining holes out to clean any threads.

Either way you choose, good luck, it sucks no matter what.

Terry

If it's any consolation, I did the same to the front bolts on the crossmember (my bad. Tried to save 2 minutes and it cost me 2 hours!). There is a progression that I follow when this happens; vice grips, then vice grips with heat (if possible), weld a bolt/nut (if possible), drill out for EZ out (very rarely works for me), drill out for cleaning threads and then last but not least, drill out for helicoil. I ended up at last but not least.
Usually one of the first methods will work, but because it broke so far down, I had to skip over to drilling. It sucks but it's got to be done. Best advice; try very hard to center your starting hole and keep it straight. Also use a sharp bit. Dull will drive you nuts.

Have patience,

MB

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

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