mine has about 155,000 miles on it and i have an engine oil leak. i'm planning on boosting in the future, so i'm saving up to get a new engine. where can i get a good deal on one. i know about m&s recycling, but i don't think i'll get a good deal from them because of the shipping and all that (i'm in jersey). should i just check local junk yards or what? how much should i expect to pay? thanks guys!
#12051, "RE: need new engine" In response to Reply # 1
it's been a pain in the ass to see where. whenever we put it up on the lift and have the engine running, it doesn't leak. but it HAS a leak, cuz whenever i leave in the morning, i leave a puddle under me. i'm losing about 1 quart per week. but, whenever we're looking for it, it doesn't leak. i don't know. she's old. i'm just gonna get a new one. any ideas on prices?
#12053, "RE: need new engine" In response to Reply # 0
If you plan on going turbo why don't you just get the rebuild kit from howell and get the new valves too. Your engine will be like new and able to hold lots of boost with the appropriate fuel of course.
#12054, "RE: need new engine" In response to Reply # 4
would that be better? i was thinking about that, but i wasn't too sure. would rebuilding be better than just getting a new engine? i was planning to re-do the newer engine after i got it with internals and such to be able to handle the boost, but could i just avoid the step of getting a new engine and just re-build my current one? remember guys, its got 155,000 (mostly highway though, of course).
#12056, "RE: need new engine" In response to Reply # 6
Rebuilt engine is like a new engine with stronger internals but that still doesn't help him with the oil leak. I would find the oil leak and fix it if you are going to rebuild the engine you have now. Just look around and find another shortblock and rebuild it with the howell kit and swap it in.
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#12057, "RE: need new engine" In response to Reply # 7
besides all the other parts that fast420a said, and the howell rebuild kit, is there anything else i would need? i will fix that oil leak; it's just a matter of finding it. are those eagle rods as good as crower rods? btw, thanks a lot you guys! this will really save me some since i was planning on rebuilding the newer engine i was gonna get. that would just be dumb and an unwise investiment if i did that, since you guys say that i could just rebuild mine instead. also, one more question, would my engine rebuilt be as strong as reliable as a newer engine rebuild with the same internals?
#12059, "RE: need new engine" In response to Reply # 9
The oil leak my be coming from a few places. I have a 1995 Eagle Talon, the first year of the new body style, so I have had basically all the problems everybody on the board has talked about.
1. look under the car, does the oil seem to be coming from the back of the engine? If it is, crawl under the car until you are looking at the intersection of the block and the tranny. Look straight up toward the top of the motor at the back of the block. Is the crossmember wet, is the back of the block wet?
If these things are true, then you may have a bad head gasket. My car had 55k on it, but was leaking 2 quarts a week when this happened to me. Do a search on the board for HEADGASKET to find out more
It could also be your cam seal which can leak oil in the same area as the head gasket would-remove the the air intake tube and look at the drivers side top half of the block and on the tranny for oil
2. Valve cover gasket-Check around the edges of the valve cover and inside the plug holes for oil
3. This was my latest development-rear main seal. for 5spd only Look under the car at your tranny. You will see a rubber boot with a rod coming out of it. You can slide the boot back to see inside the tranny housing.
If it looks wet in there, than it is your rear main
These are all the oil leaks I know about.
BTW, I am rebuilding my motor as we speak. Basically what you are looking at doing. I priced a new shortblock at an auto store and it was $2300. Instead, I ordered the HRC stage 2 and the bottom end kit from howell. All I have to do is get machining done(boring and honing). This route is way cheaper than buying a new block. If you buy a new block and then put a built bottom end in it, you are paying twice for new pistons etc.
Hope this helps
Derek
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Perf: KYB AGX Struts Neuspeed Sport Springs 5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L) Sprint Front Camber Kit $15 Rear Camber Kit Corbin's A/F Gauge MSD DIS-2 Ignition System Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have) Ported Intake Manifold Ported Throttle Body Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler Empty Catalytic Convertor Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts Hurricane_GS Short Shifter Symborsky Shift Kit Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular 225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires
Audio: Alpine CD Head Unit Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears 3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono
Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...
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