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Ok so I forgot a few things, and I had a chat with an old friend that was very sharp with fuel milage. Again, some cheap mods;
1. Ignition improvements - Multiple spark discharge (Crane Fireball has the highest energy output) and Also include a new MSD coil and wires. As for plugs, if you choose to use NGK try a hotter plug and "index" the gap on all plugs to face the intake valves. Or, you could try the Bosch platinum 4+ (I used them before I went turbo and noticed a smoother daily drive and better W.O.T. response) And a racing secret (shhh, don't tell) is that if you DO have the MSD or Crane ignition box you can actually significantly widen the gap (you have much more spark energy to bridge the gap) and that's also why I think the combo of an ignition box with the Bosch 4 prong plugs would work very well to burn all the fuel.
2. Fuel improvements - Don't ever believe the myth that your engine will explode if you ever use less than 93 (or here in Denver 91) octane. The manual suggests 87 octane. The car runs GREAT on 87, it won't knock or ping, and it will turn out a better emissions test and better milage than higher octanes. There is a common misconception that high octane fuel gives you more power and better economy, and that is false: Higher octane resists preignition and detonation, however it also burns slower and less efficient. If you have a high performance motor (Corvette Z06) with high compression, your sensors will detect lower octane knock and hurt performance, example if you purchace 85 octane (I've only seen it in Colorado) it could set off the knock sensor, which will cause the ECU to cut timing, (that's how the octane myth evolved). Remember our cars only have 9.6:1 compression - a typical Honda motor is 9.9:1 if not 10:1 and those motors run fine on 87. And if you want to spend a few bucks, there are fuel additives like "Ethos Fuel Reformulator" which I know some stage 3 SRT guys love for drag racing. Or, there is the Fitch fuel catylist that installs inline like a fuel filter and garuntees better economy.
3. Drop the suspension - Allthough most people drop the ride height for looks, it really does have some aerodynamic improvements (less air going under the car) And if you complement a drop with a camber kit (all 4 wheels) to keep your tires running at factory camber (less rolling resistance - a 2" drop will make you ride the edges, and destroy tires quickly) To demonstrate, some years back I was having a bad Vegas trip, so I left all pissed off and speeding back to LA, I ended up at 146mph and still climbing very slowly (about 50 miles from Vegas on the I-15). All I had then was the AEM cold air and a Borla cat back and a 2" drop (no camber kit) And I imagine the car could only have been 115 to 123 whp. That (dangerous and stupid move) I attribute to good aerodynamics.
4. Underdrive pulley - A BIG pain in the ass to install, at all engine speeds it could save a little off your fuel consumption
5. A FREE trick - keep your windows rolled up for better aerodynamics, and use outside vent air to keep cool.
And about the 3.55 gear ratio tranny - the truth is that it's a real pain in the ass for daily driving. And, it's a lot of time an money to find one and get it in your car. My '98 is constantly in "perma-spool" because of it, and my milage went out the ass. With 270cc injectors and the Hahn 16g I get about 18 to 22 mpg. I could be driving a Hemi with better milage! I really miss how I could drive all week and get 450+ miles per tank.
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) I definitely wasn't styling, but I could stick it to big oil with the best of the hybrids.
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