My car will start but will not idle at first. after driving the car for around 30 min or so it has no problem at all. i have replaced my IAC as well as my coolent temp sensor. my CEL is on(as always) but 2 places have been unable to read my codes "i think your obd II port is dead" was what they told me. seems to point to the ECU from all the searching ive done, but there dosent seem to be a consecutive answer for this problem. if the problem is present, like when i first head off to wherever im going, the engine seems to bog down like im dragin 6 fat girls. then it lets up and goes fine. now it looks like an egr problem. I have searched for weeks and cant find a fix, i know there are other sensors that i could replace, CAS TPS ect. ect. like others have done, but i found it real odd that my obd II port is "dead". jus looking for any help, sorry for the rambling, and thanks for looking

first, what year is your car? if it's a 95 you have to tell the reader that it's a 96, also sometimes the car has to be running to pull a code. you might try doing the keydance trick to get the codes if it's a 97 or older.

as far as not running properly on startup does it not want to stay started or idle properly when cold? if yes, you might just have a big air bubble in the coolant system. pop the coolant cap off when the engine is cold, if the coolant's any lower than the top of the flange, top it off and leave the cap off and run the engine to temp. wait till you stop seeing bubbles come up, put the cap back on and check the level of your reservoir. also inspect the connections on the reservoir, mine was broken and sucking in air when the engine was cooling

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

I'm pretty sure that the keydance only works on 95s. Maybe 96, but I don't think so. I know that to use my code reader here at the house my car needs to be running. Otherwise I can't clear the codes.

My Blog

yeah its a 95 RS, i jus had my coolent system flushed out when i changed the sensor, my ecu is only one year old, put in by satan him self. when i go out to start the car, i have to give it gas to keep it running, or else it just dies out, its hard to drive a 5spd with one foot on the gas the whole time. after driving it for around 20-30min it seems to idle with no problem. I tried both ways (started/not started) tring to pull codes. It seems like a air problem at first, but now im not real sure. Could a problem in the fuel system cause a problem like this?

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

sorry, i will do. jus had the problem before and after, take the cap off, and wait till bubbles stop coming up? not that it matters but how long would that usaly take, or will it be easy to tell?

You do not tell the scanner your car is a 96 if its a 95. Quit using junk scanners. If your OBD2 port will not allow communication with the scanner check the ground wires at the OBD2 port to ensure you have grounds. This is a very common issue with a lack of communication. Next you need to find out if your trying to do a "global OBD2" scan or a "generic OBD2" scan. Some of the global scanning has conflicts due to bugs being in the software.

A bad ECU will cause a lack of communication, that is true. User error will also do it.

Go to a reputable shop and ask them to scan the car with a SWnap on scanner or a Genesys. they will have one or the other. the Snap on has far more info in it.

Use the schematic and check for continuity to make sure none of the wires from the ECu to the OBD2 port are broken and make sure the pins of the OBD2 port that had grounds actually have good grounds.

Typically when an ECU fails the CEL will not even work so i expect its a wiring or scanner issue.

If all else fails try a known good ECU.

Terry

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

ok, i looked. the coolant was about even with the middle part of the thermostat, my reservoir, basicly empty. i pulled the reservoir out an whatever that is on the bottem of it seems to be leaking, not alot but there was a bit of coolant on the threads, none on the body of the car tho. probly a dumb question... but thats why im here, but the second hose that comes off of the lid of the reservoir, does it connect with anything? cuz if so mines not. so i need to fill it up to the flange, and add some to my reservior. and run it untill it stops bubbling, correct?

ha HA!

sorry, I like being right.

You'll need a new reservoir, the thing in the bottom is the level sensor which is probably dead if you didn't have the low coolant light going off, it comes with the reservoir. the large hose that's connected to the res cap is just the overflow hose it doesn't connect to anything.

get a new reservoir, fill the coolant and burp the system, reset the ecu. everything's gonna be just fine

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

you think advance or some place like that will have it in stock? if so thats tomarrows project, i will let you know what happens thanks alot for your help ^_^

hate to tell you, that res/sensor assembly is dealer only

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

yeah, found that out the hard way..... time to find someone parting out. how much do they usaly run?

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

For the complete assembly including the sensor if you think you need it.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213934&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2308&groupid=8421&subgroupid=4678&componentid=0&make=24&model=Eclipse&year=1995&graphicID=6226045&callout=1&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

I would recommend checking your OBD connections like Terry previously mentioned because I have to jiggle mine around to get it to work as well. I have had a problem with excess air in my coolant system causing the system to overheat which burping fixed, but your problem seems different. Have you checked the TPS? even. Are you running rich at all?

2 sets of injectors is better than 1 =)

Ok i went got a plastic tank fix kit. for now its holding, it was splitting in the crease, where it slides down on to the mounting bracket. As for the sensor.... proly wont make the CEL go off anyway.... Anyway i burped the system, and she started to idle like a dream. Took her for a ride with no problems. I will know for sure when i start her up for the first time tomarrow. Dont wana get my hopes up, i am driving a DSM, but on the bright side, i can always work on my car. unlike my girlfriend. ^_^

nevermind, no need to wait. went to leave an see "balls of fury". dont go jus rent it. anyway same problem. next item to buy cam sensor.... any other ideas? I may roll the dice and go with the TPS

So , dunno if you already did but , did u replace the CAS, camshaft sensor?

CLUTCH

Did you at kleast do the keydance so you could see what the CEL was for? Why throw parts at it when you don't have any idea what the problem is?

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

yes i have done it. codes 12,25,55. #25 yeah but i just replaced the IAC, and yes i did look at the wires for heat damage as per previous threads. It all looked fine. I just find it odd that it stops after 20-30min. It ran fine after i burped it. Im going to look at the fluid level again. Could it be possable to have some other place that air could get into the cooling system?