I finished installing my timing belt today with the mechanical tensioner conversion. All the timing marks are perfect even after 12 rotations of the crank. However, when I started turning the crank the belt was dead center, it has walked 1/4" of the cams since I started turning it.

After I install the motor mount will the belt realign? Also does anyone have the exact torque specs for the idler, water pump bolts, and the screws that attach the mechancal tensioner to the block?

I am hoping this problem will be fixed after I put the the mount back on cause I don't know what else could be wrong. What else could be so out of alignment?

water pump bolts are 104 in-lbs and the plunger pully is 23 lbs. i looked in the book for the idler pulley and it doesnt give a torque spec. but i have the same problem with my belt when it was running, the belt moved back and never went back center but still ran great.

get rid of the mechanical tensioner and put the hydraulic one back on.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

There is no reason not to use a mechanical tensioner if you install it properly. There are probably millions of these thing in use on other Chrysler products.

Did you cut away the plastic rear timing belt cover behind the tensioner so that the mounting feet truely sit flat on the motor?

Here is a cut and paste from the last time I posted about this. There is a movie link at the bottom to show you how to tension it correctly. If you have any doubts about the mechanical tensioner then go find a hydraulic one.

Originally posted by azdave
I don't think there is anything wrong with using the mechanical tensioner as long as you know what you are doing and can follow the installation instuctions. There must be a million of these mechanical tensioners in use in other vehicles already from OEM. I personally have never heard that the 420A, as it appears in Eclipses and Talons, ever came with anything other than a hydraulic tensioner. I've torn down many motors and have always found a hydraulic tensioner. Anyway, you must cut a small portion of the rear timing cover away so that the tensioner bracket mounts sit completely flush with the mounting bosses. You must also pay very close attention to the pre-tensioning procedure. You can over tweak the spring inside the tensioner if you are not paying attention.


Stock cover. Circular molding flash lines mark where you need to drill.

Drilling the plastic with a board for a backer.

Test fit the parts.


Mount the parts and be sure the tensioner bracket does not rock back and forth. It must sit flush to track correctly.

Mount up the other parts and rotate several times checking tension and timing marks carefully.

Tab lined up with spring at TDC indicates proper tension.



Movie clip of the pre-tensioning procedure. Right click "Save as" Please http://www.rcaz.com/movieclips/tensioner.mpg



If you have any doubts about using the mechanical tensioner then don't do it.


Dave

Well, I threw on the side motor mount for the hell of it and gave it a few spins. The belt moved back towards the center. It was hanging off the cams 1/4" now it is hanging off less than 1/16". Is that good enough? I included a picture of the belt on the intake cam to show what I mean. Also, this might be a stupid question, but should I be putting lock tite on any of these bolts?

It is slightly out of focus, but I hope you can get the picture.

My t-belt rides almost exactly the same way. I haven't had a single problem for over 2 years. I'd say that your okay. If it bothers you that bad, just start over again.

I contributed to the Wiki.

I'd say you're okay too... In fact, there's a good chance the belt will center itself once you start the car.


-http://www.symtechlabs.com/-

The belt never rides center. It's almost always on the outer edge of the gears.

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Thank you everyone, so I guess I don't need any lock-tite.

mine always rides toward the back of the cam gears.

Erik P.
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I also used the mechanical timing belt tensioner and was wondering if after locking it down and rotating the crank two degrees if the little notch in the tensioner lines up with the spring in the tensioner like in your picture. because my picture looked like that before rotating to check the timing marks but afterwards it moves a little when rotating through.