If interested, see previous thread concerning starting this car after engine swap. Turned out to be pin on intake camshaft sheared allowing gear to rotate without turning the camshaft. For now, I would appreciate opinions on the following (quickly if possible).

Long story, but after dealer having car (97 RS 5sp)for weeks to replace cylinder head, timing belt, water pump, etc. finally got a call that it was running well, no smoke, no knocks. Was told the oil pressure light was on and needed a new sensor. I let them keep the car another day to replace the sensor and told them I wanted to make sure everything was good and safe before picking up the car. Next day, was told the sensor fixed the problem. Picked up the car and as my son drove it home the oil light was flickering and the car overheated and stalled. He pulled over and waited for it to cool down before driving the remaining 2-3 highway miles home. When I got home to look at the car, fluids were good, belts seem okay, but car has a knock like a spun bearing. Could the overheating cause the bearing failure? Could a case be made for the dealer being liable for the engine damages? Need some advice since dealer had car towed back to check it out and they will be calling me back today. Thanks for any info you can provide.

They're supposed to warranty their parts and labor for some amount of time, right? If you can show that the dealer work directly contributed to the engine failure, they should cover it.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Check the thermostat first, they can stick when they sit too long.

Beyond that, if you supplied a used water pump, it may have been defective or have failed.

if, even on a new sensor, the oil light flickered I'd say you actually had low oil pressure. Unless there was a bad leak or the car was low on oil, the bearing wear was either already done, the oil pump was worn beyond spec, or the pickup tube is loose. My humble opinion would be that the two are unrelated.

Have you listened with a mechanic's stethoscope, or a couple of ratchet extensions or something, to determine exactly where the noise is coming from and if it is indeed a spun bearing?

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I would go with I just gave you a shit load of money to fix my car and now look at it. you can fix this or my lawyer can make you fix this, whats it gonna be.

once I had a ground go out on my car It should of been covered under warranty they charged me 2 hours of labor to fix it. After about a week of getting knowhere with satan. I made a picket sign and stood on the corner by the dealership service dept. After about 15 min I was told to leave the area so I called the local paper in front of the svc manager to tell my story. 5 min later I had my money back and a year of free oil changes.

total cost to me 6 bucks for the sign.

all I can say is fight them, fight them, fight them.

We will build you bigger and stronger


Wake up and drive my ass... More like wake up and fix it.

If the opposite of Pro is Con
then the opposite of Progress is Congress

Thanks for the replies. Still waiting for the dealer to call me back and tell me what they found and more importantly, what they plan to do to make things right. They said that before we took the car home, they had test driven it and allowed it to run in the shop at least 4 times and the engine sounded good, with no knocks or other issues. Could just be bad luck that the knocking began on the drive home from the dealer, but I still don't know the cause of the overheating and am concerned this may have directly contributed to the lack of sufficient lubrication to the bearings and thus the rod knock. Has anyone else had a knock develop shortly after overheating?

After waiting over two weeks, finally called dealer. Basically was told "too bad" but we didn't work on the bottom end and the work we did is right, so it's not our problem. They offered a few options from a $5,000 new engine to a used shortblock with 90 day warranty installed for $1150. Can't afford the $5K so will probably go with the shortblock. I know the warranty is not very useful since it won't include labor, but if I go this route, what would be a reasonable mileage to accept on the shortblock? 50K, 75K, more?

Camshaft pin shear. Man, I hate hearing about that. They are right, though, it's pretty much not their fault. That's one of those things that just seems to happen to people. Some of the most meticulous builders on this board have experienced that failure.

a dealership would do that how lame