OK so about a month ago my car starts this knocking noise which sounded like a rod. Of course it starts right in the middle of the 2.4 swap in the daily. which I can't have both cars down at the same time F*CK. So I hurry up and try to put the 2.0 liter back in the daily to get it running so I have a car bad idea, I'm not even going to go there. Well I got around to messing with the other car. it started off I was going to just swap out the engines for now to have a running car. I talked to my co-worker and he was saying it could be a water pump as well. so I spend the time to pull the timing belt down and the water pump looks OK. After removing the oil pan to check the rods they seem fine but I did find some plastic chunks in the oil? Boss said it is the Famous oil pump drive gear which is plastic? I then start to pull the timing belt pulley off with the puller and break the lip WTF? how do you get that B*tch off? I am too the point of just swapping motors again like I originally started to do but just don't want to give up boost even if it is just for a few weeks. Any ideas on what to do would be great thanks ahead of time for your help. installing the other motor means either running the turbo set up and port fueler on a stock motor which will be safe at low boost or reworking the exhaust and fuel set-up to run stock again. bobby
#116876, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 0
Our oil pumps dont have plastic drive gears. Its not the water pump. Tap the rod caps to listen for one that sounds hollow or different from the others. Thats your spun rod. Just swap out the motors like you planned.
#116877, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by little_FTO I then start to pull the timing belt pulley off with the puller and break the lip WTF? how do you get that B*tch off?
Everyone calls this a harmonic damper pulley.
As you found out you should never pull on the thin outside lip of the pulley especially since it is isolated from the hub by an integrated rubber ring that can also come apart.
Use the correct puller. There is one that is Chrysler specific for rent at most Autozone stores or just a good 5-ton 3-jaw puller that pulls on the back side of the hub through the spokes.
Ask for the Chrysler Harmonic Damper Puller for the best tool. It has the extra spacer rods too.
#116878, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 2 Dec-26-07 09:03 AM by daes_venge
Originally posted by azdave
Originally posted by little_FTO I then start to pull the timing belt pulley off with the puller and break the lip WTF? how do you get that B*tch off?
Everyone calls this a harmonic damper pulley.
It's a timing gear. The gear on the crank that turns the timing belt. I'm assuming you are trying to remove the oil pump? You will definately need a new gear or that broken lip will eat up the timing belt. They will run you around $20 at the dealership and as far as getting it off, you need a special puller with small bolts that screw into the gear.
#116879, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 3
Originally posted by daes_venge
Originally posted by azdave
Originally posted by little_FTO I then start to pull the timing belt pulley off with the puller and break the lip WTF? how do you get that B*tch off?
Everyone calls this a harmonic damper pulley.
It's a timing gear. The gear on the crank that turns the timing belt. I'm assuming you are trying to remove the oil pump? You will definately need a new gear or that broken lip will eat up the timing belt. They will run you around $20 at the dealership and as far as getting it off, you need a special puller with small bolts that screw into the gear.
yeah ended up asking at work today and they said the same thing. anyone know the size of those screw holes or the name/part number for that tool? I have 3 spare motors not a huge deal that I broke it just pissed me off that day. and to the first post I haven't had a chance to recheck the rod bearings its been raining the past three days.
#116880, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by little_FTO yeah ended up asking at work today and they said the same thing. anyone know the size of those screw holes or the name/part number for that tool? I have 3 spare motors not a huge deal that I broke it just pissed me off that day.
I'm just going to copy a post I made on tuners recently
If you're now trying to get the sprocket off after you got the pulley off, then I used this type of puller...
I drilled the holes out on the stock crank sprocket because finding long enough bolts that were so small was a pain and the sprocket is only about $13 from the dealer so I replaced it. Edit just a note, the crank sprocket does have a woodruff key, but the crank pulley is just pressed on.
I contributed to the Wiki! EVO IX - just a really expensive boost gauge and a K&N air filter 96 Eclipse RS -awaiting registration and inspection 95 Eclipse GS - parts car Mods/Profile - http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=cs82685
#116881, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by azdave
Originally posted by little_FTO I then start to pull the timing belt pulley off with the puller and break the lip WTF? how do you get that B*tch off?
Everyone calls this a harmonic damper pulley. As you found out you should never pull on the thin outside lip of the pulley especially since it is isolated from the hub by an integrated rubber ring that can also come apart. Use the correct puller. There is one that is Chrysler specific for rent at most Autozone stores or just a good 5-ton 3-jaw puller that pulls on the back side of the hub through the spokes. Ask for the Chrysler Harmonic Damper Puller for the best tool. It has the extra spacer rods too. Basic 3-jaw 5 ton. Fits tight but works for me.
#116883, "RE: ok so motor is giving me a headache" In response to Reply # 7
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon You want an M6 bolt that is 2.75" to 3" long. Deffinitly get a grade 8 bolt. I found mine at Ace Hardware, regular stock.
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