im going to be making a heat shield for my HRC kit, and my header on my N/A ride, and i was wondering, should the aluminum be ok for this app? wil i need anyother materials to add to the aluminum? im doing it for mostly temps, and well hiding parts.. i live in cali..smog/cops= gay, what they cant see dont hurt me... thanx guys

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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

lol, i thought it was like 22 or 36Ga SS, but as long as i can use the aluminum, sweet! thanx

you can always get a 1 qt stove-top suace pan and make it out of that.
ends up looking nice and its already pre-curved
plus you can get them in copper / black / polished

i'll see if i can find the link to the one i saw on a supra forum

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If you choose aluminum, it will oxidize quickly in that environment. You can polish it, but it will look bad again before you know it. If you can get a hold of stainless steel sheet, you will have a much more durable finish. I have had good luck with 23 gage 316 stainless in a "bright anneal" finish.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
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Aluminum would work, but the stainless steel would be more robust.

Hmm, what about sheet titanium? Maybe not as expensive as you think, it's not like it would have to be thick or even high quality as even the worst titanium alloy/grade is way overkill for what you need. Little/no worry about corrosion, and not really a good thermal conductor (I.E. good for heat shield). Sure, tough to work with, but you can find a way around that, right?



http://buy.titanium.com/cco_catalog/dsp_viewItems.cfm?cat=Sheet#Grade%202

It's only $156 for a 6 foot square sheet of the thinnest, least expensive grade on that site. Not bad actually. You could probably find better if you looked.


Just another crazy idea.

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
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And also a 2011 Ralliart

Aluminum and copper both have high thermal conductivities making them terrible heat deflectors. Also, you will never be able to keep these metals polished and pristine.
Your best bet for deflecting heat would be to go with a stainless steel shield, however, it may lead to a situation of which too much heat is deflected and not enough is allowed to pass out of the system. This could lead to damaged parts and an overall temperature increase under the hood.

I liked the saucepan idea considering it wouldn't require any shaping, however, saucepans are designed to conduct heat efficiently.

Titanium isn't much better at deflecting heat than stainless steel. Althought you can purchase a sheet of titanium for a little more than you would spend on a sheet of steel, I'm sure you could find a used sheet of steel from a scrap yard for next to nothing.

Finally someone used their brains....
Aluminum as bandit said is a horrible material for a heat shield.
Do not use aluminum...

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

Use stainless steel 18 guage is much better, it can be powdercoated for a more OEM look or polished, heck even chromed. The idea of a heat sheild is to do two things. Number one is to keep a cushion or pocket of hot air about a inch or so away from the surface that your shielding without actually sitting up agianst it. # 2) The heat shield reflects radiant infrared heat. To do so it only needs to block the direct " line of sight" between the heated object and the rest of the engine bay or coolant lines your blocking from heat. Here is a basic guide for making a basic heat shield, the one seen here was made just so I could use it as a guide to weld a heavier steel version of which I am finishing this weekend and will update the pics, but you see how its made. The piece you see will be the " Inner layer" and the piece I am making will be the heavier outer layer. It will create a pocket of air between them, and not more warped Carbon fiber Hoods http://upgradecar.blogspot.com/2007/11/turbo-heatshield-now-made.html

The aluminum can only do the last one. It can provide a physical block between the straight line from the turbos hot exhuast surface and the coolant / oi lines however aluminum tranfers heat VERY fast. Over 3 times as fast as Stainless steel. So the heated air quickly transfers heat to the aluminum and the it also radiates the heat. So yes you can block SOME of the heat radiated but all in all its going to quickly transfer heat to areas around the engine bay. Because Steel transfers heat slower, when you stomp the gas and the turbo quickly reashes 1200 degrees the steel will hold back that heat from your engine compartment 3 times longer that aluminum. If you already made a shield with aluminum consider using it as a guide to make a stainless steel one later, it looks much better, holds a shine and will serve its purpose better.

Ps. If you do make a two layer like mine, the perk is that you can " trial and error" your way through the under layer then match all the holes by lining it up from the inside and marking with a sharpie to the pretty outer layer. Always mar everything from the inside, so you dont need to find a wiki on haw to repolish the steel clean agian.