In the process of a stock rebuild and its been a while so i have a few questions. First is the piston rings. i know when i did my je pistons years ago i had to set the rings a certain way and I've already installed 2 pistons in this new block and forgot to look so not sure which way these (stock piston rings are going) also i measure the ring gaps on all the rings and they all matched perfectly however i could not find what the gap should be anywhere? i know they are different with all pistons but these are .020 over stock pistons anyone know what the gap should be. only other issue I've come across is the crank. everything was machined block was bored crank polished. installed all new bearings put block and bed plate together and i can turn the crank by hand using the crank itself but not with the front of the crank that sticks out like 5 inches (where the pully goes on) i cant remember if i could turn it by hand with that or not? any help would be greatly appreciated joe
98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.
Status:Up and running again! nice new paint
Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated) Hahn manifold (ceramic coated) Hahn Downpipe assembly Hahn intercooler piping smic Hahn oil line kit Type s bov 2G Gsx smic walbro 255 fuel pump Synapse missing link Vortech s-fmu NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges
#114992, "RE: Rebuild" In response to Reply # 0 Jul-22-08 04:10 PM by dsmracr420a
You should be able to spin it very easily by hand, if it seems hard to spin at all, I.E. if you can't spin it using the crank snout one of your bearings may have come out of alignment when you put the bedplate on, or your clearances are F'ed up. As for the rings, I think there is an exact position for each ring, however with that being said, when I did mine I just made sure the gap didn't line up on any of the rings and mine has been fine for years (215 psi across all cylinders). I don't recall the ring gap but if you look up Corbin's rebuild guide it'll give you more info than you'll ever need.
Edit: You did remember assembly lube on those bearings right?
#114993, "RE: Rebuild" In response to Reply # 1 Jul-22-08 04:43 PM by joeck76
yes i lubed everything up with Molly assembly lube. made sure bearings were all seated correctly before putting the bed plate on. redid pistons to where ring gaps should go etc. crank turns with ease just not by the snout. i can turn it with two fingers on the fly wheel or if i grab the crank itself but not by the snout. i can however turn it by the snout if i press down on one of the pistons.
98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.
Status:Up and running again! nice new paint
Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated) Hahn manifold (ceramic coated) Hahn Downpipe assembly Hahn intercooler piping smic Hahn oil line kit Type s bov 2G Gsx smic walbro 255 fuel pump Synapse missing link Vortech s-fmu NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges
#114994, "RE: Rebuild" In response to Reply # 2 Jul-22-08 05:24 PM by dsmracr420a
Hmmm, did you plastigauge the main and rod bearings in two spots 90 degrees apart to check for out of round? I find that it's best to double check myself, even if the machine shop says it's "within spec". I'm not the most experienced member here and I don't post a lot, but I have built a few engines and have always been able to spin it over using the crank snout (even with all four pistons installed).
Edit again: If you couldn't do it before any pistons were in you have a BIG problem somewhere.
I'm going to have to RESPECTFULLY disagree, in the original post he said that he had only installed two pistons/rods at this point, you should definately be able to spin it by hand at this point (provided the head isn't on), more so if he wasn't able to spin it without any pistons/rods installed. Sorry to disagree, but I'd hate to see this guy waste his engine because the clearances were too tight, and he didn't double check the machine shop's work.
#114997, "RE: Rebuild" In response to Reply # 5 Jul-22-08 11:40 PM by Star Turbo Talon
disagree all you want, i am going to respectively tell you i do not care what-so-ever.
My 2.4 is fully blue printed and you cannot turn the crank stub with your bare hand with only 2 pistons in. Its a matter of trying to turn something that you cannot fully grip. if you can grab the counterweight and give it a spin and it spins freely then your fine. Any motor being build should be plastigaged regardless.
When i try to push my car, i find it hard....maybe i need to replace all the wheel bearings ect. Perhaps the car is just kinda, oh i dont know, HEAVY!
Alright thanks for the help. Everything was checked and came out correctly. i have to totally agree if i were able to get a good grip on the snout i probably could spin it but i cant.
98 RS: Mods: Custom Stage 2 Turbo kit , 55mm throttle body, gutted cat, evo cat back exhaust, p/p intake manifold,p/p Head, af-x underdrive pulley, B&M short throw shifter,Built bottom end Je pistons eagle rods 8.8:1 compression.
Status:Up and running again! nice new paint
Custom stage 2 hahn turbo kit Hahn Super 16g turbo (ceramic coated) Hahn manifold (ceramic coated) Hahn Downpipe assembly Hahn intercooler piping smic Hahn oil line kit Type s bov 2G Gsx smic walbro 255 fuel pump Synapse missing link Vortech s-fmu NGK Bkr7e11 Plugs A-pillar w/boost, a/f, oil pressure gauges
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