Alright, here's the situation. I bought a Visteon Radiator with a single SPAL fan. I want the fan to be on at the time, and I want to use the factory harness.

If this isn't possible to do through the factory harness, which wires to I connect to ensure the fan with turn on when I reach operating temperatures. If anyone has a better suggestion to help keep the temperatures down, please let me know.

I believe I am suppose to use the passenger's side harness, the four wires are as follows:

black -
blue with black stripe -
blue +
blue with white stripe +


This is on my 97 Talon NT

I have the same Visteon radiator with the single SPAL fan. I just installed it because my car was overheating. I thought the old raditaor was clogged and causing the overheading so I bought the Visteon. I'm turbocharged in Phoenix, AZ (today was 113). But even with the Aluminum radiator the car overheats. I think the FMIC is blocking my air flow to the radiator. My car overheats bad. The needle hit "H" a few times now. Datalogger peaked ECT @ 245 I don't think the single fan is enough for my set up. I have a 2nd SPAL on its way and I'm gonna build a shroud around the fans/radiator with some aluminum sheets. The fan sits to far away from the radiator right now. (about 3/4 in. gap) I don't think it's pulling the air "through" the coils ya know?

Anyway my fan had a Blue wire & Black wire just like the two from the chassis . I just spliced on the connector from the stock fan wire because the SPAL wire connector wasn't the right one. I also have my connected to the Drivers-side connector. I thought the Passenger connector was for the A/C? The fans is positioned to the drivers-side of the car (that's where Visteon welded the mounting brackets) so I figured that's the connector I should use.

I'm not driving the car anymore until I get the 2nd fan. I'm afraid of warping the Head or pushing the head gasket if the coolant reaches 240.

I'm not sure that your overheating problem is related to your radiator. If it was doing it before and is still doing it after replacing the radiator that sounds a little suspect. Have you checked the obvious things like the t-stat, cap, leaks? I'd search and find some other possibilities. Overheating could be a head gasket issue as well. I ran my car with my visteon radiator, brand new engine and turbo in 100 degree heat a few days ago. It ran extremely hot but didn't overheat. I actually had a cheapy vacuum line start to melt because of it but the gauge sat right in the middle where it should be. Good luck though.


"And I say, 'Hey, Lama, hey, how about a little something, you know, for the effort, you know.' And he says, 'Oh, uh, there won't be any money, but when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness.' So I got that goin' for me, which is nice."

I just installed my visteon radiator. Cut the connector off one of the old fans and connect the blue power wire on the Spal to the white wire on the connector. The black wire right next to it is your ground. Connect it to the only wire left on the Fan and you're set. Mine works fine. Make sure you heat seal those connections though. I used the driver's side connector though. Haven't had any issues yet.



If you meant that you want it on all the time try this thread. It may or may not be of help.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=105373&mode=full


"And I say, 'Hey, Lama, hey, how about a little something, you know, for the effort, you know.' And he says, 'Oh, uh, there won't be any money, but when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness.' So I got that goin' for me, which is nice."

When I wired my fan I had an issue because the stock fan had a motor inside a motor and both were wired seperately on the same connector. At 180 degrees the low speed motor kicks on and at 200 degrees the low speed motor turns off and the high speed motor kicks on. This created a condition where if you wired it to one motors connections you would have your new fan on from 180-200 or just 200 and over but not both. I had to wire a seperate circuit with a 180 degree sensor in the radiator (jegs or any auto parts store will sell the complete circuit with sensor) to keep the fan on at 180 and over.

There are probably other ways to do it but I thought I would share my experience. Good luck.

Hey, just an update. I hooked my new fan to the driver's side harness.

My fan came with two wires, a blue wire, and a black wire.

The factory harness on my 97 Talon N/T has four wires, blue with white stripe, black with white stripe, and two black wires.

I hooked the fan up as mentioned above:
*DRIVERS SIDE..

BLUE (from SPAL fan) --> blue with white stripe, and black with white stripe (from factory harness)
BLACK (from SPAL fan) --> two black wires (from factory harness)

I let the car run and warm up to operating temperature, but the fan didn't turn on. The car warmed up to 190-200 degrees and it didn't turn on.

I checked my fuse box just in case I may have blown a fuse or two along the way. Everything was fine and I noticed there are five relays (refer to picture):

1)Rad Fan (HI)
2)Rad Fan (HI)
3)Rad Fan (LO)
4)Condenser Fan (HI)
5)Condenser Fan (LO)

I have one relay missing, but it was never there to begin with so I don't think this is the problem.

I also noticed that the harness from a 95-96 only has two wires on the driver's side, while the 97-98/99 have four wires.

If anyone can help me troubleshoot this problem so I can get my fan going, that would be great.

It appears you have it hooked up correctly and yes, it is normal for that one relay to be missing. I assume you have a automatic tranny since you have a 2-speed fan on the driver's side?

The Spal can only run at one speed so you really only need the low speed circuit hooked up since it will always run first when cooling is called for by the ECU. The low and high speed circuit both feed the same voltage to the new fan so just because it is hooked to the low speed wires means nothing about the speed of the new fan. Having the high speed wires connected too does no harm.

The first thing I would do is temporarily reconnect the OEM fan and be sure it operates like it used to. Whenever you have an electrical problem if you can drop back to a known good condition it is much easier to troubleshoot the remaining issues.This step will confirm that you have not accidently caused a wiring problem when doing the install.

Assuming that checks out, be sure your new fan runs correctly when you simply apply 12 volt power to the blue and black wires with a couple of test leads touched to the battery terminals.

If that works then it would have to be a wiring issue when the fans were swapped.

Check this stuff and report back.

I've got a manual transmission.

I'm going to check the wires and make sure everything looks good, other then that I'm kind of at a stand still as I sold the stock rad/fan to fund the new set up. I'll see what I can do in the meantime. Thanks