As most of you know, i have had a problem with my car from week one, and over the past three years not ONE person has been able to tell me what is going on. After numerous trips to Satan, local shops, experts, and bugging everyone i could on this site, its come to this.

Two days ago i replaced my milled head with a stock head, and since then ive had hesitation so bad that i cannot accelerate on flat ground in any gear. While doing the rebuild i found two wires that had crossed on the coil wiring, which i figured shorted out wires or damaged the plugs. So, today i replaced the plugs, wires, blocked off the egr(had code 32) and replaced the thermostat. No luck.

Timing: While doing the timing i used the stock cam gears to line up the crank, and after everything was fine i switched out the gears for my Fidanza's, only to find out that they are 1.5 teeth off from the stock gears. If the timing were off my idle would be shit.

Driving: If the car is started in the morning and driven directly after starting, it will run fine for a mile or two, but once the car reaches normal operating temps it starts with the horrific hesitation. I dont have smoke from the tailpipe, nor do i have any leaking oil on the motor. My oil looks and smells perfectly fine, i checked that today also.

Stats: Fuel pump is new, fuel filter new, injectors fairly new, fpr new, coil fairly new, wires new, plugs new, gas tank new, battery new, iac new, tps old, iat new, map fairly new, egr blocked off, cam angle sensor fairly new, newer head, headgasket new, gutted cat, ECU newer and after that you'll have to ask me because i cant remember anything else.

As you can see everything has been tried and at this point i dont know. I would appreciate if this stayed in the Advance section because no one in the other forums can help me, i always get simple answers. I really appreciate the help that is given!

Aem Cold Air AFX 55mm TB
Fidanza Cam Gears NGK Wires
AFX UDP Greddy Header
Gutted Cat Greddy Evo Catback
Energy Suspension MMI Eibach Sportlines
Tokico Blues...always more to come

Have you checked your coolant temp sensor? Ohm it with a multimeterboth with the car at operating temp, and with the car cold, and post the numbers here.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

well, the last time i took the car in to have it diagnosed i made sure to have them check the coolant temp sensor, and my mechanis said that its within specs(it was the first thing he tested). I will talk to him later to find out the specifics.

Aem Cold Air AFX 55mm TB
Fidanza Cam Gears NGK Wires
AFX UDP Greddy Header
Gutted Cat Greddy Evo Catback
Energy Suspension MMI Eibach Sportlines
Tokico Blues...always more to come

dont go ask your mechanic what he got....ohm it out and answer the question yourself. If your mechanic didnt check it before or overlooked a measurement at operating temp then you are still leaving room for error. ever hear the saying..check and double check. "its within specs" leads me to beieve he maynot have checked it when it was warm.

You need to read the temp the ECU sees as operating temp......You can do the ohms measurement with the coolant sensor as dino sugests or you can use a scanner and see what temp the ECU states the motor is at; obviously the ECU gets info from the coolant sensor. then you compare the same temp (at the same time) with w digital voltmeter that has temp capabilities. If the raditor coolant is lets say 190 and the ECU thinks its 100 there is one problem. now keep in mind the radiator is typically 5-10 degrees cooler than the sensor.

If the ECU is getting the wrong temp then it will alter the timing and fuel mixture causing symptoms like you are having.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Tokico Adj wrapped with H&R - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Has your mechanic done a key one engine runing scan test while driving? I would be curious to see what patterns your upstream O2 sensor is showing. The car when cold does not read the O2 sensor til it goes into closed loop mode. If you O2 is faulty and not throwing a code...yes that does happen. then it may be screwwing up the fuel mixture. If the O2 oscillates too rapidly it will throw a code...that is the most common fault but if it constatly reads lean the ECU may be trying to dump fuel in.

How is the idle at operating temp.....Take a vacuum reading when it is good and warm and idling in you garage. let me know what the vacuum is.

Terry


96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Tokico Adj wrapped with H&R - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Check the O2 sensor as suggested. Sounds like a problem with that.
One time when I had the O2 sensor wired up wrong it acted just as you are suggesting...

As for checking the Coolant temp sensor that is a good idea also.

Where are you located?

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Megasquirt powered 420A
Custom turbo system

http://www.ms-custom.com

Alright, i'll try to answer everything in one fell swoop. When i took the car in, i was told that the car was put on the diagnostic computer at normal operating temps, a compression test was run (185-190 across), as well as the coolant temp sensor being tested. I trust the guy i had doing the work, i had quite a few people reccomend him. Myself, i dont have many tools to work with so i really cant do much testing. My front o2 sensor is less than six months old, do you really think it could be malfunctioning? One thing, i have my a/f gauge wire running from the harness of the o2 sensor, its not connected closer to the ecu like ive heard it should be, ive never gone back and rewired anything.

NEW INFO: Last night i discovered that one of my Fidanza gears is NOT for my eclipse, it must be for a neon. This gear is on my exhaust cam at the moment, which could explain the horrible hesitation. I purchased the gears from Modern Performance and i will be contacting them tomorrow. The intake gear has 10 degrees of adjustment with a + and - sign on each side to show retard and advance. The exhaust gear has 12 degrees of adjustment and the number 12 where the + and - signs should be.

Hopefully within a week or two i will be picking up another eclipse, 97 rs with a few mods, and after that i will be able to break my 95 down and diagnose the problem. With your guidance it should be swift and thourough. Please continue giving me information because i greatly appreciate it.

Aem Cold Air AFX 55mm TB
Fidanza Cam Gears NGK Wires
AFX UDP Greddy Header
Gutted Cat Greddy Evo Catback
Energy Suspension MMI Eibach Sportlines
Tokico Blues...always more to come

Even though the O2 is fairly new i would not rule it out..A wire could have been burned since it was installed or the plug could be corroding or a loss of connection due to shitty assy of the sensor itself....however i would put it on the back burner for a moment.....I thought you said you set timing with the factory timing gears...i must have misunderstood you. The adjustable gears you have are for a neon hands down..if i recall correctly....they only make adj gears for the neon and we have to adapt. you need to lay the stock gears over the fidenza gears and remark the alignment marks. That very well could be the issue. Just for the sake of argument i would remove the cam gears, reinstall the originals and set timing and see how it runs. If your hesitation goes away then there is your problem and now you can tackle installing the new ones correctly. You will be able to spend your time on making them work as opposed to wondering why the car run like crap. I thought you were trying to say to took the cam gears out of the picture already and it didnt do any good. Do this first and lets here back from you. anything else is going to become a very tedious testing procedure and like you said you abilities are limited right now.

I am never buying cam gears for mine...too many headachs have been seen on this site with them.

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion - Stillen front and rear sway bars - Koni yellows wrapped with eibach - Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - Tenzo-R seats/4 pt harness - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Tokico Adj wrapped with H&R - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

what i did was lined up the stock gears, and before i installed the timing belt i put the fidanza's on in place of the stockers, and they lined up 1.5 teeth off. The exhaust gear is the different gear, Neon i suppose and thats why i think i have the problem. I need to replace them with stock and see what happens.

Aem Cold Air AFX 55mm TB
Fidanza Cam Gears NGK Wires
AFX UDP Greddy Header
Gutted Cat Greddy Evo Catback
Energy Suspension MMI Eibach Sportlines
Tokico Blues...always more to come