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Hmm.....one of the problems you will run into (obviously) is accomodating all kinds of different set-ups. As poor as the OBX design is, that seems like what they tried to do. It's shiney , people seem to like that. They shortened the runners a little and smoothed out the turn. They have a smooth interior with the injector humps pretty much not there. But plenum size, fitment, runner alignment etc. owns them.
For NA, you could shorten up the runners a little (obviously, finding the right length will require the R+D that you speak of)and use of velocity stacks for runners would be ideal.....
Eh, now that I re-read your post, I get the idea that you are looking for what would help sell your intake. Shiney works good I would think to make it as "bolt on" as possible; so you would probably want to maintain the positioning of all the sensors (including map). Be real sure that the bolts/nuts to the head are easily accessible. Designing a little bit easier access to the fuel rail bolt-on/off would be handy. I would recomend making the throttle body opening (sheetmetal I presume) at 60 mm (and in the stock spot). If someone has a smaller TB, there would be no (discernable) effect as the flow would not be interfered with. But if the hole was smaller than 60mm, then there would be interference (or the buyer would have to port it out a little. Yeah, normally no big deal for a basic modder, but more work nonetheless).
I believe that you would be able to make an intake that could cover both NA and Turbo (obviously, to the buyer, two specific intakes would be ideal, but now you are raising costs etc. Maybe have the option of a different "big turbo" intake). Most of the turbo guys are going to be below the "60 to 1" size turbo. I'm thinking that the intake you generate will have enough of the flow characteristics to take on modded NA or "smaller" turbo.
One of the biggest problems you will get for the NA is having the support for the intake on the customers vehicle. You'll probably get nothing (or maybe even worse results) using stock internals with a stock ecu (which is what many will want to do). You're really going to want some kind of tuner to take advantage of the intake. But that will be up to you as a seller to make that point clear (though, who knows, it may add power in some weird quirk of the ecu reading sensors etc. More for your R + D).
One more point you might want to think about; change the entrance angle. I really dislike the angle that the stocker enters at.
Just IMO. I know there are others on here who are much more informed on air flow characteristics, matching resonaces and the Bourne Identity effect on air (crap that I skimmed over in HS/College but I couldn't recall a bit now). They would have much more of a technical position to add. I do all my porting and air flow info through just practicality (the way I see air flow) and old man experience.
Oh yeah, and giving them away free to anyone over 30 would also help (well, would help me). But I would think your price range should land in the $350 to $400 range.
Again, just IMO. Captain Caveman
96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq 97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq 98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats 99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97 99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!
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