I need my car for its my only transportation besides my parents car, and they need there two cars, so Im just wondering how long can I go before it seizes up? I know i shouldnt even be driving it, but I need it to goto school.

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
Check Out My Site For Pix
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/EclipseRaceR/MyEclipse/VIS%20CF%20Hood/

find another means of transportation unless your planning on putting in a completely new bottom end

spun bearing will chew up you crank and rods. The added heat can also warp ane blue the block and bedplate. then there the metal shavings that could get into the oil system (damage to oil pump? possibly parts of the head if shavings make it up that far?)

if you plan on a whole new motor, drive it all u want till u throw a rod thru the block, but if you plan on reusing anything, get it fixed before driving it.

im not just thinking worse case here either.

I just went thru this...after getting some rod knock, i prolly drove a total of 10 miles.

i blued a rod cap from a saenz rod and it was too brittle to be reused: result, new rods (saenz rods arent cheap, hold as much power as crowers but are lighter...i cant afford a new set so now i have eagles instead ). crank was chewed up pretty good, result, new crank (altho, crank could have been reused, but had a spare turned to avoid extra down time). 3 of the mains were blued, but luckily they checked out fine when line-honed by the machine shop so i got to reuse my block and bedplate. could have been a lot worse if i drove more

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

Stop driving it right NOW and Change the oil to 20W-50 with a bottle of Bardahl's NO SMOKE (found at WalMart). That additive is thick as old honey. It will quiet down the engine alot and will make it last a little longer. Trust me, this works from personal experience. Lasted almost 6 months with no further damage on my old V6 Camaro.

Also, don't forget to change the oil filter!

If you absolutely must drive it, I suppose you could drop the pan, find the bad rod bearing, replace it with a slightly oversize bearing, then run some thick 15W50 oil for a bit. That is by far not the best way to deal with it, but it is something you can do in an hour and 1/2 of work and may save your crank and/or block.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Where can I get those oversized bearings, and how do you change the bearings?

BTW: Im planning on sending my engine as a core to FTY for their 2.2 stroker engine, so Im thinking maybe just leave it like it is and send it and let them do all of the work since they are modifying the cranks and replacing the bearings neways.

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
Check Out My Site For Pix
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/EclipseRaceR/MyEclipse/VIS%20CF%20Hood/

U need to get under your car remove the oil pan find out which bearing is shot. Take a wrench remove the two bolts from the con rod cap. when you remove the cap there will be a half moon shaped bearing take it out then remove the other half that is attached to the con rod itself. replace with the new bearing the same way you took it out. bolt it back to gether and wala! Might want to buy a chiltons also

myspace.com/coastiecobb

You can get oversize bearings for our cars at most auto parts stores i.e. NAPA. Changing out the rod bearings is a simple task. If you continue to drive it the way it is, you may damage the crank bad enough that VT won't be able to use it for the 2.2. Really really bad things can happen from driving with a spun bearing, so I highly recommend that you don't ignore it.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

I drove a total of 1 1/2 miles...and didnt touch it until two weeks later when put the engine back in after rebuilding it.

96 Eclipse Base 5 spd
Rebuilt engine w/ forged internals, APC Air Filter, Clear bumper lenses, 15" ICW wheels, Alpine v12 amp, 2 12" Xplodes, 5.6" lcd monitor, Dvd player, Playstation 2, Power1 Exhaust, Aerospeed Wing, Altezza tails w/ painted center, 20% tint, Silver Graphics, Audiovox alarm system.

Big transformation underway this winter!

I had a rod knock... heard about the 20w50 oil and the oil treatment (karo syrup in a plastic bottle) and did it... I drove it until I heard the noise again.. went to pull off the side of the road (less than a mile away) and completely spun the bearing.. therefore buying a new crank and rods, b/c it spun one rod and its recommended while you are going through the trouble to replace all 4...... so I disagree w/ doing what I did..and get that shit fixed... yes it takes time to fix, but if done correctly, and if you do it before any major damage, you may get away w/ just replacing either the bearing or maybe bearing and a rod.... and keep the crank in.. therefore leaving the engine inside.. I wish I could have redone that day all over again.. and yes that all happened in one day.. could have spent less than 100 bucks (b/c I found reconditioned rods for 60 each and bearings for 9 bucks) instead I spend 1700 myself and I did all the work myself.. that is not including labor, since I did it myself.. I learned a hell of alot though... but do whatcha wish.. need any help, hit me up on here or aim (rawdawgstv) I can step ya through whatcha need to get done and the easiest way to do it.. holla

~STV~

IMO unless you have a good spare crank (hard to find) and rods sitting around, park it.

haha, i drove my rs for 11,000 miles on a spun bearing, tickin everywhere i went, then finally at about 11,500 the piston came apart in the cylinder and i parked it lol, i was drivin around on 3 cylinders, the ticking noise got about 20x louder, i just got it back about 3 days ago ( old engine ) and took it apart, i had a pile of metal shavings in the oil pan, spun bearing on the #4 cylinder, and only about half of a piston left. so i parked it and got a used 420a from dwayne ( aka widebodied )

LOL DAMN!!! 11k miles lol hahah...thats cool...well im in the process of chening out my bearings...so far all ive done is got my car on jackstands and drained the oil and oil filter...tryin to get the damn bracket from the bedplate to the bell housing off so i can actually remoive the oil pan....damn no tools...i swear if i had the right tools and a real lift...this would go by so much faster...right now im working on the side of the street with a lil 2 ton jack and some tools i find around the house...

1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
Check Out My Site For Pix
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/EclipseRaceR/MyEclipse/VIS%20CF%20Hood/

go to autozone or sears and buy a set of sockets (1/2" drive I recommend) and make sure you have a 1/2" ratchet for them.. they are alot sturdier and usually the 1/2" ratchets are longer makin them have more torque.. I know the oil pan bolts are like 11mm or maybe 10mm and the other bolts you need to remove are the 2 or 4 for the downpipe (remove all 4 and its makes it 2x as easy), then those 2 gay brackets that serve absolutely no purpose..then check it out. if they arent spun all the way and your crank and rod are completsly smooth ya might be able to get away w/ just the bearing replacement.. but its highly doubtful, so pullin the engine is probably gonna have to happen.. if ya are stressin over money, do it yourself.. I did mine b/c I couldnt afford 3500 bucks for a rebuilt engine and install... I knew nothin bout cars, except oil change and plugs.. I completely rebuild mine from reading here and my chiltons and a few other places and did it all and it runs great now.. so if ya need me, I'm here to help ya brotha.. hit me up or aim me or email me.. ibplaynuall@hotmail.com (email) or rawdawgstv(aim).. I can get the parts ya need for pretty cheap.. later

~STV~

xEclipseRacerx you've got PM!

Built 420a
NER turbo kit T3/T04s ball bearing
AFX UDP
Crane 0014 cams