i FINALLY did the mod. it's been a long time coming.

i didn't want to deal with taking off the entire pipe, i'm too lazy. so i took a Sierra Mist can and used some tin snips to cut out a piece of metal the same size as the gasket that goes between the EGR valve and the pipe. then i used a 3-hole-punch thingy to make 2 holes for the bolts that keep the pipe on, and i bolted the whole thing back up.

i didn't notice any "peformance" difference at all, but...

i don't think my intake manifold will get any dirtier and i'll NEVER EVER MELT ANY MORE F'IN WIRES. amen.

although, the car stumlbes and almost dies every now and then at idle. about 1 out of 3 times when i stop for a light or something the car will almost die, then come back up to normal idle. i'm guessing this is the ECU closing off the IAC and opening up the EGR to check if it works? does everyone else with a blocked-off EGR system have this happen to them?

that is all.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

You used a pop can ? That's some pretty flimsy aluminum... you may want to use a thin steel plate instead because when the solenoid opens the egr valve, I dont know that your piece of pop can will stay put very long. I'd hate to see you run some aluminum through your combustion chamber ya know...???

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Yeah. That soda can won't hold. It's too flimsy. I used 1/8" plate. Works better and is much sturdier.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

If you remove it completely, a 1/8" peice of steel the shape of the EGR valve is nice to have bolted to the head, and an *aluminum* soda can piece the shape of the EGR pipe connection to the intake manifold (w/ the gasket still there) is PLENTY strong enough to withstand a little vacuum.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

>If you remove it completely, a 1/8" peice of steel the shape
>of the EGR valve is nice to have bolted to the head, and an
>*aluminum* soda can piece the shape of the EGR pipe connection
>to the intake manifold (w/ the gasket still there) is PLENTY
>strong enough to withstand a little vacuum.

I don't think it's strong enough though to prevent a boost leak.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

eh, whatever... it hasn't failed yet. if i turn my electronic boost controller off i get 5 psi, which is what my stage 1 wastegate is set at. it's really bolted in there tight, and i run 16 psi of boost at the most... so that's 16 pounds per square inch, right? the EGR pipe is a lot narrower than 1 square inch, probably like .75 or so i'm guessing. so that's about 12 pounds of pressure on that little piece of aluminum, i think it can handle it.

or maybe i'm just being a choad trying to justify my ghetto mod that i did a few days ago in infinite boredom. whatever. if it fails, i'll just replace it with a real piece of metal.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

dude. get the mopar egr blockoff kit from fenton dodge. Its only like $30, and don't forget to mention the 2gnt discount! (810) 714-3300

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

vitor from the neons.org has a nie EGR blockoff kit i just ordered one tip top quality y0!

*working on carrying his products too BTW

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

has anyone else noticed differences at idle?
later
"Z"

i know it's a noob question but it's been so long since i've researched this (never had the time to do it till now) but where exactly to you "block off"??

a pic would be nice but a good discription will do

tia

WTB: Dodge Omni


http://www.geocities.com/shadyporshe851proof/frame_content/indexframe.html

mods: star stage III clutch + 60mm tb + the normal mods, bass, lights well u get the picture

while assembling my cylinder head a number of weeks ago, i decided to completely remove the EGR pipe, for good.

i don't get a CEL. the trick that i remembered seeing here on the board quite a long time ago seems to work.

here's what i did. i found some sheet metal (aluminum, i think it was for one of those eletrical outlets, but without any holes for plugs) with some good thickness and i traced around the OEM EGR gasket. i cut it out, and drilled 2 holes for the bolts. i made a second plate.

i loaded up one of the plates with RTV and bolted it to the back of the manifold. seals perfectly.

i took the old EGR gasket and put it between the old EGR valve and the new blockoff plate. bolted it up. no leaks.

i left the black EGR transducer thingy completely unhooked. no vacuum lines. i didn't even cap off the end. however, i DID hook up the connector that goes to the ECU.

my ECU has been connected to the battery for over 3 weeks with no EGR CEL. no more melted wires either!

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)