#108143, "Srsly. WTF is going on here... (cams, timing, general disgust)"
Saturday night, we completed the installation of the built motor into an Eclipse. Turns out we had both cam dowels pointing same direction. What you gonna do? Shit happens.
Tonight, we get started at 7pm. By 830, the engine is timed again and, without putting the PS/AC or Alt belts back on, we test fire the engine to be sure things are right.
- One dowel points up. The other points down. - Both "holes" in the cams themselves point straight up when marks align.
Still refuses to lite off. We have... - swapped CKP and CMP with known good units - confirmed all sensors connected - verified fuel pressure at the rail - swapped multiple, known good coil packs - tested for spark on exposed plug, both hanging from wire and in contact with chassis (did not see spark) - done cold compression test on #2 and #3 *30psi*
Starting to wonder if I have somehow ended up with a set of fucking Neon cams. All I've got are the following pictures (taken at #1 TDC with all marks lined up). Additionally, the cams bear the following stamping/numbers.
INTAKE: |----|----|----|L-4 131 |----|----|----| 532 <-- revealed upon rotation of camshaft
EXHAUST: |----| 2244 |ABX| 676 |----| 27 |----| C <-- revealed upon rotation of camshaft
This engine ran fine when it had the Crower 2s in it. All we did was have the head decked and replace the head gasket. The Eclipse is a 97 and we're getting no CELs for either CKP or CMP. We've even tried disconnecting them both, but got no code for either. The only parts installed which I have reason to doubt are these cams.
Without a degree wheel, it's just an observation that there could be a shitton of overlap on these things, causing the severe reduction in compression results. Additionally, given a 1-4-3-2 firing order, it seems odd that the lobes for #2 would be ready to open the valves (all of them) when #2 piston is at BDC.
I'm at my wit's end on this project. It was supposed to be done this past Saturday. I'm pretty much moving this coming weekend and have to get this shit done. This is fucked. I've been through all this nonsense before with the same engine, but I'm out of ideas. Hell. I even checked to be sure I didn't have the VSS/coil connectors swapped somehow.
Supposing I managed to get my hands on Neon cams, would the hall effect magnet bits on the end of the Neon exhaust cam for their CMP still properly interact with the 2GNT CMP? I was unable to get the alternating 5VDC from it regardless of which pins I back probed.
Someone please throw me a fucking bone. I really don't need this shit right now. Thanks
#108144, "RE: Srsly. WTF is going on here... (cams, timing, general disgust)" In response to Reply # 0
Copy from searching. if you had neon cams you would know it
alain95i4 Mar-27-07 06:45 PM Member since Jan 28th 2002 732 posts, 21 votes, 39 points Rate this user
#103639, "RE: Neon/Mitsu Cams" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G cams aren't interchangable. cam sensors and seals are different, the neon cams won't fit
you could be surprised they do fit physically in the 420a head and once your timming belt is done properly your 420a will turn like a neon engine with a new twist it will suck air in from the exhaust manifold and you will have bad smoke comming out of the intake manifold !!!!!!
I know because it happened to an Avenger owner last years who tried to see what would happen if he put neon camshafts ...
#108145, "RE: Srsly. WTF is going on here... (cams, timing, general disgust)" In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Copy from searching. if you had neon cams you would know it
I just wanted to get the situation out there since I'm two hours behind everyone else now on PST. Fully plan on researching things in depth this morning.
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon it will suck air in from the exhaust manifold and you will have bad smoke comming out of the intake manifold !!!!!!
No smoke, since it won't fire, but I'll be damned if I don't smell more fuel at the TB than I do at the exhaust tip right now. Not that you shouldn't/couldn't smell some fuel up near the rail, but that you don't smell *anything* at the muffler.
Oddly enough, flooring it while cranking does result in a sort of burping sound emanating from the muffler. It just sounds not right.
Cam Tips '95 SOHC The SOHC engine originally came with a 4667667 cam that had 12 lobes with two narrow ones (.450I and one wide one (.690I between each journal. The lift at the intake lobes (narrow ones) was about .190˝ to .200˝ and about .170˝ to .180˝ on the exhaust lobes (wide ones). There is no identification on these cams other than the six pairs of two lines stamped in the outer diameter of the flange that's right behind the back journal.
However, Chrysler put a different cam in the '96 SOHC motor. It's 4777128 and it has about .175˝ to .180˝ of lift at the lobe for the intakes and about .178˝ to .191˝ for the exhausts. Most of these cams have a series of two to six punch marks stamped around the perimeter of the flange that's right behind the back journal on the cam.
'95-'99 DOHC With the intake ports to the front for placement in the Chrysler vehicle platform. border=0
Intake Cam: The original 4667917 cam has been replaced by the 4777631AA that appears to be interchangeable. It can be identified in two ways:
1) It should have either 917 or 631AA etched on the back of the cam or on the semi-finished area in the middle of the cam.
2) With the dowel pin at the 12:00 o'clock position, the first lobe should be at the 11:00 o'clock position.
Note: The rear flange on this cam is .337˝ wide.
Exhaust Cam: The original 4667918 cam has been replaced by the 4777632AA that should be interchangeable, too. It can also be identified in two ways:
1) It should have either 918 or 632AA etched on the back of the cam or on the semi-finished area in the middle of the cam.
2) With the dowel pin at 12:00, the first lobe will be at 6:30.
Note: The rear flange on this cam is .160˝ wide.
95-99 DOHC With the intake ports to the back for the Mitsubishi platform.
Intake Cam: The original 4667673 cam has been replaced by the 4777629AA. You can identify it as follows:
1) It should have either 673 or 629AA etched on the back or on the semi-finished area in the middle of the cam.
2) With the dowel pin at 12:00, the first lobe should be at 3:30.
Note:The rear flange on this intake cam is .160˝ wide for the Mitsubishi applications.
Exhaust Cam: The original exhaust cam for this application was a 4667675. It's been replaced by part number 4777630AA. It can be identified in two ways:
1) It should have either 675 or 630AA etched on the back of the cam or on the semi-finished area in the center of the cam.
2) With the dowel pin at 12:00, the first lobe should be at 3:00.
And, just to make it more interesting, note that the flange on this exhaust cam is .337˝ wide for this application.
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#108153, "RE: Srsly. WTF is going on here... (cams, timing, general disgust)" In response to Reply # 3
Turns out the exhaust cam was legit, but who fucking knows where that intake cam came from. Doesn't even match up with the Neon stampings. Picked up another set of stockers tonight on the way home from work and then spent two hours fucking with getting the timing *just* right.
Still won't fire, but getting a CEL 11. Don't see how the CMP/CKP could be the culprit, as the car drove in under its own power, but it can't hurt to swap out the known good ones from the Talon tomorrow and try again. Only other option would be tbelt off by 1 tooth or more. I might just try resetting the ECU and giving it another shot. It's a stored code and the CEL does not stay lit after start up.
Just want this fucker out of my garage at this point.