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Have you bought a high strength bolt approximately 1" longer than the stock bolt? That makes life so much easier, and saves you from accidentally stripping the threads.
Place the new bolt into the crank bolt hold until it hits bottom, and you'll have a little space for the pulley to move out. Now center your 3 arm puller, and place a block of wood under the left side of the puller under one of the arms, so the whole pulley does not turn as you tighten the puller. It will come off, but it takes a lot of leverage, I use a big metal pipe to extend my leverage on a heavy duty ratchet. If the pulley eventually hits the head of the center bolt and still hasn't come off the crank, back it out just a few threads, and then redo. Repeat by just backing out the bolt a few threads everytime - b/c you do NOT want to strip the threads in the crank!
One common thing that happen for first timers, is the the center bolt of the 3arm puller is placed right against the pulley, as the center of the pulley looks like it's a different metal and so you think it's the crank. It's not the crank, it's actually just how the pulley looks, and so if you do this, you are essentially trying to pull the pulley away from itself.
A couple more tips. While the pulley is a PITA to remove, it can also be just as bad putting it on. This is the easy way to do it: Set the oven to 450, leave the pulley in there for enough time to relax from the headache of the timing belt change, and then when it's hot and the metal has expanded, run to the car and slip it on easily. I did that today, went on like butter. It's good to do this on a cold day too, because the crank is cold and therefore the diameter is ever-so-slightly smaller.
The next major hurdle is pulling out the 3 crank bolts. You'll see what I mean soon enough. You may prefer to drill a small hole to take out the rear bolt (I've done this, it makes the timing belt change SO much easier - just make sure to rust proof the hole after you drill it.) Also, remove the screws holding the plastic timing belt cover to the block BEFORE you take out the motor mount.. It is actually easier to remove the plastic cover and the motor mount at once (some people try to remove the mount by itself, but IMO that's a headache.) 2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
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Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO
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. I really thought the ring in the middle of the pully was the crank itself but I guess it was from the washer that was there. so I'll have to take a trip to the hardware store tommorow and get the bolt and Try and bang this out. This head gasket is more of a pain in the ass then i thought it would be. but yeah thanks a million 
