Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to turbo my 420a in my GS and I was wondering if anyone has tried smogging their car naturally aspirated with 8:8:1 compression. Does anyone know if it will pass? I live in California so smog laws are very strict here. It would be great to only pull turbo off every two years and not swap the engine. Thanks

If the motor is tuned right I dont see any reason why it would be a problem.

98 Eclipse GS Turbo
Built motor - MS2 - Holset hy35 - Zoom Stg 4 Clutch - 57.5mm TB - ARP Headstuds - Turbonetics wastegate - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Cobra calipers w/ 13" Rotors - Oil Cooler - DevilsOwn meth injection

1981 Chevy Scottsdale
1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car
2001 BMW 325i

Just don't be disappointed when you drive it without the turbo b/c it will be balls slow.

- 98 Eclipse rs turbo

I don't care if it's slow when it's N/A. It's slow already and I've driven slower cars. I just want it to pass smog without pulling the motor.

Balls Slow is an understatement. Im running 8.6:1 and its got me feelin like im driving in turtle time... Tho once Im moving for a little bit, and it starts suckin air through the CAI, I can get a slight hint of what it could possibly do with boost....

Ya, I dont expect it to run very well. I just want it to pass emissions tests. I might just buy the turbo kit and throw it on my motor that I have now. The motor just needs a new head gasket and it should be good for 6psi for now until i get my built motor. Compression test came up good on all cylinders (175-225psi recommended) cyl.1,2,4 were all about 215. Cyl 3 was 180, poured a little bit of oil in and went up to 250 so the rings are getting worn out there. But I think it should hold 6 psi for 2-3 months being easy on it most of the time. Or do you think I should just put the built motor in first? Are you breaking in your motor but planning to turbo in the future?

Ya, so it just wont pass with the 8:8:1's thrown in there? I'd probably have to to something with the A/F ratio since I'm sure it'll suck gas more than it does with stock compression. Correct?

You shouldn't have to tune the car any. The ECU will adjust and inject the right amount of fuel. And compression ratio has nothing to do with fuel comsumption. It wont take any more fuel to just run a lower compression ratio.

98 Eclipse GS Turbo
Built motor - MS2 - Holset hy35 - Zoom Stg 4 Clutch - 57.5mm TB - ARP Headstuds - Turbonetics wastegate - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Cobra calipers w/ 13" Rotors - Oil Cooler - DevilsOwn meth injection

1981 Chevy Scottsdale
1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car
2001 BMW 325i

I thought you said you know a lot? Compression ratio will affect the cars ability to accelerate but it will not require a different tune to pass emissions. In fact with a lower compression you should be running to lowers octage fuel you can aquire. Idle will be just as stable with lower compression.