Howdy, y'all,

In preparation for head gasket replacement, I've removed the
head ('96 Eclipse GS), and cleaned the block carefully using a
scraper, as the gasket stuck to the block after the head came
off. Also used the 3M Roloc yellow brush on my drill to clean
the block deck. Vacuumed the block thoroughly to ensure that
no debris remains.

Now working on the head. Again, using the scraper with gentle
pressure, scraped away carbon deposits in the combustion
chambers. Valves look fine; in fact, for 95K miles, engine
looks good internally. (<5K-mile interval oil changes do
make a difference.) Have use the Roloc white brush as
specified in the Chrysler TSB to clean as much as possible of
the gasket-area head surface. I've already sprayed the
multi-layer steel replacement gasket with copper gasket
sealant (Permatex 80697), so hopefully that'll help to seal an
imperfections in the contact area between the block and head.

How much cleaner does the head hafta be?

Also measured the rear, driver's-side bolt hole in the block
and it seems to be the same depth as the other shallower bolt
holes.

Any other reassembly tips that you can think of?

Thanx muchly.

APJ
The OC, SoCal, USA.

P.S. I'm gonna try uploading a photo of the underside of the
head, so that you can see what I'm talking about.

Its always a good idea to have the head checked for flatness and shaved down as necessary. Popping a new gasket in there without doing so can lead to another gasket failure rather fast if the head has any warpage to it.

GRRR. Plain text. Grr.

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

Here's photo of the head after scraping and buffing with a 3M Roloc brush on my drill. Don't wanna hafta send it out at this point for grinding; don't really have the time.

http://www.2gnt.com/documents/smallCleanHead.pdf

(For some reason, couldn't upload the JPEG file that I shrank with MS Photo Editor, so converted it to PDF.)

Also, what's the consensus about shortening the rear driver's side head bolt? Coupla kind responders recommended shortening the bolt by coupla threads. I installed the bolt after chasing the thread with a tap, and measured against another short bolt installed diagonally on the other side. Seems to seat at the same depth, but don't wanna do all of this work only to have the oil leak return.

Thanks again for your thoughts about this.

APJ.

looks good, but you could always hit the combustion chambers up with some Sea Foam on a rag (be sure to wear a glove) and then hit it again with the drill. it will get anything left off. Sea Foam is good stuff. (its like 7$ for a can at autozone, white can with red letters)

Edit:Or, when and if you take it to the machine shop, pay them to clean it up nice for you

** Current status: 9 bent valves. and it only had 6,000 miles on it. i hope the replacement goes well. **

Lots of expensive parts, and still slow! Oh wait, it has to run to go fast.

My Wiki Page: www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=red96rs>

from 2g chat
* DarkOne joins 2GNT_Chat
‹DarkOne› .
‹DarkOne› wow... i'm drunk
‹DarkOne› at 9am.
‹DarkOne› on a saturday.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm