ok so here is the deal i bought a 95 eclipse for 400 dollars and it didn't start when i bought it i have replaced the obvoise broken parts which include:

fuel pump
fuel filter
fixed a leak in the fuel rail
ecu
cam shaft position sensor
timing belt
battery cables
all relays and fuses....


ands still no start.... now it does try to turn over but that's it i can't figure out why i have tried so much but i can't figure it out i am running out of money to fix my car and i need it to run because i got into an accident in my other car and now it's totalled it was a hit and run can any of you guys help me i'm in desperate need of it !!!!!

Well first of all I hoped you checked compression etc to make sure you have a vehicle that actually will run without having to be rebuilt.

We are going to need more information to help you, what does work, did who you buy it from say what it needed, what does it sound like when try to start etc.

well when i bought the car they said that they did a motor swap and off the back i knew they were lying and they said that it just stoped running one day wich i think there was some more to it then that. so i had the fuel pump check for compressoin and it would would 12 pounds when trying to start but when the car is off and the key is on it would hold nothing so i replaced that and then i was getting fuel to move and it would stop at the fuel filter cuz it needed to be replaced and then after that i got fuel to the fuel rail and then it was leaking so i had it fixed and no start still so i then checked the relays and to of them were bad and the rest were about to go so i replaced all of them and then tried it again. same. so i proceeded to check the sensor and the cam shaft position sensor was completly gone so i replacd that one( not easy to replace) them i tried it again. and still nada. so at this moment i'm stuck.... i am trying to located my book on the actual motor but i haven't found it yet and i am just dumb strucked all the parts that i seen broke or worn out i replaced or fixed.????

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

hey thatnks for the help guys but i just woke up (working on car all night long) and heres whats going on right now when you turn the key in the on position the fuel pump is supposed to turn on right? well it's not. but i know it's good cuz i just bought it brand new out of the box so it's not getting fuel. and it's not getting andthing from the relay because it's not making the electrical to it. so should i get a new harness??? but yes there is compression and the motor and the fuel pump is at were it's supposed to be at 45 pounds.

What were your compression #s?

Also how do you know that your fuel pump isn't working? Yet you say there is 45 lbs pressure(I am guessing fuel). If you are just going by sound you won't really hear it.

It seems very odd that everything you say has gone and you replaced would have actually been faulty unless the car has been in a fire or the previous owners used it to store all their broken parts by installing them(highly unlikely).

If your fuel pressure and compression are good then check your spark and your timing again to make sure everything is good there(hopefully you didn't screw valves and stuff up trying to start it with bad timing).

well i don't have the numbers at the moment i wrote them down but i have to find them and i had the fuel pump tested at a shop thats specailizes(SP) in fuel type shit. and as for the timin belt thing goes i had it redone to spec by a buddy who has the same car. i guess he had some problems with his awhile back, he siad something about it bieng a 420a that they do that or something??? and has for who i got the car from. no offense to any race or anything so take what i'm about to say and ingore it please. but these fucking beaners tried telling me that it just didn't start on day and they replaced the motor and all and said that it never was in any accident but the title says otherwise... so they tried to feed me a bunch of bull shit but i knew they were lying so i had it alllook at by a body shop and verything looks fine except that one fender wasa put on with wood screws. lol amatures... but besides that i am still trying to pull up info on the car itself to see were it has been who work on it and all

Well keep that kinda talk out of here if you don't mind- you bought it for $400 and knew it wouldn't just start and drive. It'll need work, and if anyone says "It just stopped running one day," you know what kinda project you're gettin into. You just have to take one thing at a time, and do some troubleshooting so you don't do unnecessary repairs/replacements. Not tryin to be an ass, just I've been there many times, and you just move foward with it.

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

So you say the fuel pump doesn't kick on when you turn the key - but it will turn over if you try to start it? Do any of the dash lights come on? When you checked/replaced the relays, did you check the 2 (3 for automatic tranx) on the driver's side firewall by your master cylinder? The one is for your fuel pump, it may be faulty. You can at least pull it out and probe the terminals to test if it's getting a signal from the ECU. Try the screwdriver/extra plug test on an ingnition wire to see if you have spark, and double check your timing marks on that belt as stated above. I'd really doubt that the harness is bad (though not dismissing it, don't know what the car's been through).

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

well guys you all have help me alot but we all are wrong i pulled the motor today and found that the guy's who had the car before me didn't do any sort of swap and that they rewired the ENTIRE CAR with house wire the kind that can handle only a 40 watt light bulb so i got screwed out of 1600 dollars and all that i put into the car so i guess i have to buy a new ca well i guess now i am saying does any one know of any one selling one for cheap??? it's sad that when i look at the car i never seen the wires but as soon as the motor was pulled i seen it when my friend look at all of it he didn't realize it... well i guess i just got to keep looking so if you know of any one then i'd apprecaite the help thanks

that wiring job sounds amazingly bad, i cant understand why anyone would do that. If i were you id look for a doog car for sale on here, because you know most people on here will obviously take care of the car. Keep your car for parts, or part it out when you get a new one.

Thank you mobil one for rust proofing my driveway.

I dont feel nearly as bad now for paying $1500 cash for my 98 rs shitbox....

Atleast it was bone stock when i got it. Neglected, but stock and it runs when it wants to.

Goodnight sweetheart...yes its time to go...bum bum bum bum bum...good night sweetheart yes I am one little a$$hole......bum bum bum bum....