Okay, I'm sure that by the title of this thread most will think this should be moved immediately, but I'm really not sure if that's what I need help with or not (confusing I know). So here's my dilemma: Been working on this car for a bit over a year now, I feel as if I have got a lot of great parts, a pretty nice setup from what I've researched, but the issued is that I don't quite get how to make everything work in my favor. I just need help determining what device if any will help get more power out of the motor, and if there is anything else I should add before buying turbo (this summer hopefully!!!!!), to get the most out of my car. A few stats below, please help.. Even if it's giving a link to something that I coulda found during search, because to be honest, my biggest problem is not even knowing where to start.

Engine:


I just ordered my new crate motor and wanted to get everyones opinions about it. Let me know eithter way please, which I know you all would do anyways. BTW, Its being built by the guys at overbore.com ... Ive been on the phone with the owner for like 3 hours today just discussing every aspect, talking prices, and just shooting the shit. Seems like a great place, and as soon as I get the engine in and running Ill post how its holding up. I decided this one over the crates at Howell Automotive because of better customer service, and said they'd have it done in 4 weeks tops instead of howells 3 months.

SHORT BLOCK
420A block, turbo ready block assy.
Wiseco Forged pistons. W/rings (8.6:1 ratio/.020 overbore)
Eagle performance custom rods
New main Studs/Bolts
New Brass freeze plugs
Block painted black
New oil pump front cover Melling Performance
New oil drive gears
Line boring, decking, boring, and plateau honing of block
Assembly of the shortblock
Balance the rotating assembly
File Fit Pistons rings
New ACL performance bearings (Rods, Mains and Thrust)
Crankshaft index Ground
Blueprinting of the shortblock
Full gasket set
New OAW performance Water pump
Timing Belt, Idlers, Tensioners
Fidanza Indexable Cam Gears
HEAD
Head (STAINLESS SP PERFORMANCE valves)
Silica-bronze guides
New lifters
Crower Performance springs and Retainers
New Valve Locks
ARP head studs
MLS head gasket Cometic
New cam seals
Crower Cams stage II 64462-2
Rocker cover gaskets
Rocker arms (set of 16)
Street polish & port

Other Goodies:
Apexi N1 Cat-Back Exhaust
Test Pipe
New Racing Headers
OBX Intake Manifold
ATX Tranny Cooler

Is there something to help get more all-motor power in the mean time even though I have low compression?

Thank whoever reads and helps in advance, I want to have a pretty nice set up by the s/o 2008

That looks to be a pretty good setup. I would say that the one thing that you could add that would allow you to get the most out of the setup and make going turbo when you do even easier, would be Megasquirt. The nice thing about it is that you can install it on your n/a, get used to tuning, and then add the turbo and dial it in. It's not that easy, however it seems that it is worth it. Search on this site and over at www.msefi.com and you'll have all the info you need.

DirtMegirt
Wiki Contributor

You're going turbo? Are those NA cams? What are you doing for Throttle body? I'd suggest MP 60mm. Be sure to modify your OBX. Check out this link;
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=OBX%20Intake%20Install

What are you doing for a tuning device? Portfueler? MSnS? I would suggest MSnS for flexibiblity and it will net you some power while NA.

Also, you are aware that your header will be replaced when you go turbo, correct?

MB

Yay for cut and paste!

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Just take a look inside the plenum of the OBX mani to be sure that they took down the poor alignment of the runners. Might be worth a peak. BTW, I have heard good things about overbore, so I think they'll treat you fine.

As for tuning devices, we are pretty limited. If you have a 97, you can get an AFX/ECU from Howell (or possibly used) as a plug and play. Just bolt in and go (but it won't play well with turbo). I did some dyno tests with the unit and it did really well (for a plug and play on a built NA). You can get a portfueler but that won't work with NA. You can get an SAFC but that won't add much for the NA (a few overall ponies with a slight curve change), and won't help you turbo. So that pretty much leaves MSnS to use for both turbo and NA.




Yup can do this all day

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Yes It would be amazing to talk with those guys...

Please don't flame me but I got that OBX from CI motorsports, and it was actually great inside. Runners were perfect, the only thing I don't like is the flanges and where the injectors meet, it's a little rough, other than that, nice!

Oh yeah, and I've already got the overbore motor. Pleased with motor, but the shop that put it in, may have done something wrong. I blew head gasket after 10k. And turn around time was a little long, but Mark (owner) was great to talk to.

How much did you pay to overbore.com for the engine.

4200 after core deposit was paid back to me..

Also... I've started to research MegaSquirt products. I've been reading and browsing at glensgarage.com and I'm not really sure which unit or model would be sufficient to run with my setup. Is there something particualr I should be looking for. Not buying yet, but looking for all the information I could get, to determine what I can do NOW to make install of the system more smooth, when I am ready to purchase.

Imo, if you want plug and play, portfueler is the way to go, but the MS is a great product to. as for the above "port fueler wil not play nice with N/A", thats wrong if the PF dosent see boost (ie N/A engine) then it will not do nething, so the car will run based on the stock ecu fuel map... (unless he meant you cant tune the N/A with the PF, then thats correct, the PF will only tune fuel for 0 Psi+ )so imo either go with the Port fueler or MSnS

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Quick question to anyone who may know, which will probably be everyone but me...

My compression is 8.6:1. Running this low of compression with no forced induction yet, do you think it may be causing damage to motor? Ever since this engine was installed, it has run a bit sluggish, stalled after being in reverse multiple times, and I blew head gasket after 10k on this motor.

you'll have a loss of power, but no it shouldn't hurt it at all. if you blew a gasket there's something else at work there. compression change alone wouldn't do it. your timing will be a little off of optimal, but if anything it'll be too retarded (a few degrees at most), not advanced.

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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi