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topic #106831

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Subject: "Oil Leak"

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Nisshoku81	Nov-13-07 11:44 AM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106831, "Oil Leak"

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the great information. I've been looking at this site for awhile now and I finally decided to register. About two months ago I paid Mitsubishi to replace my valve cover gasket. After this I found out the my camshaft positioning sensor and oil sending unit were leaking. I replaced both of these parts and have not had a problem sense. Just recently I noticed oil leaking from which looks like the valve cover but on the side where the timing belt is located. It's leaking around the block and is dripping on the my headers. Looking closly it looks like it is leaking between the timing belt compartment and the valve cover gasket. I'm almost certain it's the gasket but Mitsubishi will not agree with this. Do you know if there is any other gasket in that area that can produce this leak?

Thanks emoji

1999 Eclipse GS

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Replies to this topic

RE: Oil Leak, justins71, Nov-13-07 12:42 PM, #1

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-13-07 01:09 PM, #2

RE: Oil Leak, Administrator

Administrator

Star Turbo Talon, Nov-13-07 01:23 PM, #3

RE: Oil Leak, justins71, Nov-14-07 08:08 AM, #4

RE: Oil Leak, Team

Team

DR1665, Nov-15-07 03:57 AM, #5

RE: Oil Leak, justins71, Nov-15-07 07:21 AM, #6

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-15-07 10:33 AM, #7

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-15-07 04:41 PM, #8

RE: Oil Leak, Team

Team

DR1665, Nov-16-07 03:53 AM, #9

RE: Oil Leak, justins71, Nov-16-07 03:58 AM, #10

RE: Oil Leak, mcgyvr, Nov-16-07 04:57 AM, #11

RE: Oil Leak, Team

Team

DR1665, Nov-16-07 10:09 AM, #12

RE: Oil Leak, bolverkchaos, Nov-16-07 11:11 AM, #13

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-16-07 04:31 PM, #14

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-22-07 03:37 AM, #15

RE: Oil Leak, djtrickee, Nov-23-07 03:52 PM, #16

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-23-07 08:38 PM, #17

RE: Oil Leak, daes_venge, Nov-25-07 05:06 PM, #18

RE: Oil Leak, justins71, Nov-26-07 08:41 AM, #19

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-26-07 12:59 PM, #20

RE: Oil Leak, Nisshoku81, Nov-26-07 07:17 PM, #21

justins71	Nov-13-07 12:42 PM
Member since Oct 25th 2007 466 posts,

#106833, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 0
Nov-13-07 12:45 PM by justins71

so it's leakin' from between your timing cover and your valve cover... but dripping on your header?? emoji Just not sure how that would work.
But my guess is that it could be the cam seals or the actual valve cover gasket. You also need a little silicone under the cam end-cap.

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

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Nisshoku81	Nov-13-07 01:09 PM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106834, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 1

Originally posted by justins71
so it's leakin' from between your timing cover and your valve cover... but dripping on your header?? emoji

Just not sure how that would work. But my guess is that it could be the cam seals or the actual valve cover gasket. You also need a little silicone under the cam end-cap.

It is a very weird problem. The oil is literally right below the valve cover gasket to the very left of the block. It's driping down the side of the block slowly but surely. I've came to the conclusion that it is either the valve cover again or in between the timing belt case and the valve cover which again points to the gasket being bad. Man I hope that makes sense.

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Star Turbo Talon	Nov-13-07 01:23 PM
Member since Oct 21st 2003 8331 posts,

#106835, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 2

you NEVER EVER put silicone under the cam caps. Anerobic is the only thing to be used. Silicone will alter the bearing clearances and eventually do a ton of damage.

Your leak. can be valve cover gasket, could be cam seals or a combination of both. Valve cover gasket leaking after replaced is not that uncommon depending on how they installed it. Only way to know is to pull it and check yourself. One option is to pop the cover off and since the gasket is new, spray it down with brake cleaner to clean off the oil. Clean off the head surface as well. Use a small amount of silicone to stick it to the valve cover. Now take a tiny bit of silicone and rub it on the surface of the gasket to smear a thin film on the gasket. Re-install and let it sit for about 1 hour before you fire it up.

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justins71	Nov-14-07 08:08 AM
Member since Oct 25th 2007 466 posts,

#106842, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 3
Nov-14-07 08:33 AM by justins71

I'm not talkin a 1/8" bead... just like get the surface wet, to seal inperfections in the mating surface. I know it's not the 'correct' sealant, but in moderation it works okay w/o messing clearences. I've done the same on the bedplate and 20k on the motor w/ no issues/leaks. I was pretty much just tryin to point out that that is a potential leak point that gets overlooked.

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

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DR1665	Nov-15-07 03:57 AM
Donating 2GNT member 14692 posts,

#106850, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 4

Originally posted by justins71
I'm not talkin a 1/8" bead... just like get the surface wet, to seal inperfections in the mating surface. I know it's not the 'correct' sealant, but in moderation it works okay w/o messing clearences. I've done the same on the bedplate and 20k on the motor w/ no issues/leaks. I was pretty much just tryin to point out that that is a potential leak point that gets overlooked.

Dude. That's scary shit right there. You are aware that bearing tolerances run in the ten thousandths, right? If that RTV has opened the clearance on your main journals even 0.0005", you've drastically shortened the life of that motor.

Maybe it's *working* for you so far, but I would very strongly advise anyone who reads this thread in the future to just go to Napa and pick up the $15 tube of the right stuff. It's not worth the risk.

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justins71	Nov-15-07 07:21 AM
Member since Oct 25th 2007 466 posts,

#106852, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 5

Originally posted by DR1665
I would very strongly advise anyone who reads this thread in the future to just go to Napa and pick up the $15 tube of the right stuff. It's not worth the risk.

I'll second you guys on doin it the right way. I just really didn't expect this engine to last this long, or long enough to get into worrying about bearing wear emoji

I did know about using the red loctite-type when i threw my engine together, but it was a rush and I didn't have any so I made due (famous last words, right?!). Next build I'll get it correct!

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

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Nisshoku81	Nov-15-07 10:33 AM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106853, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 6

Well guys, I took my car to mitsubishi this morning and they refused to fix it because they think it is not the valve cover but the cam seals. What I dont understand is if it were the cam seals, how could it leak to the front of the car? Wouldn't it leak to the side and down the back? I took some pictures of the issue today and I will try to upload them tonight so you can see what I'm talking about. I think I will start doing the work on my car for now on since I can trust myself.

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Nisshoku81	Nov-15-07 04:41 PM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106856, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 0

Here are the pictures. I hope this helps.

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DR1665	Nov-16-07 03:53 AM
Donating 2GNT member 14692 posts,

#106860, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 8

Looks like cam seals to me. I'm sure you meant to say that Mitsu will not fix it for free.

Now is the time for you to learn how to do the timing belt. You can have those cams out and be replacing the seals yourself in less than an hour with just TWO sockets (maybe three at most), but you have to reset the timing belt afterwards. First time out, just plan on a full Saturday to do it.

You've got a sharp car, man. Don't trust it to anyone other than yourself. You can totally do this and we'll help you. All you really need is a floor jack, a basic set of sockets, and a special puller they will let you borrow for FREE at Autozone and you're good to go. Look at it as though you're paying yourself $100 each hour you spend working on your car instead of having a shop do it for you.

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justins71	Nov-16-07 03:58 AM
Member since Oct 25th 2007 466 posts,

#106862, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 9

Originally posted by DR1665
Look at it as though you're paying yourself $100 each hour you spend working on your car instead of having a shop do it for you.

+1

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

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mcgyvr	Nov-16-07 04:57 AM
Old School 2GNTer 3121 posts,

#106863, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 10

from the pics it looks like the valve cover gasket is just leaking..
I always run some RTV around in the groove that the gasket sits in then put the gasket in place...

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

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DR1665	Nov-16-07 10:09 AM
Donating 2GNT member 14692 posts,

#106866, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 11

Originally posted by mcgyvr
from the pics it looks like the valve cover gasket is just leaking.. I always run some RTV around in the groove that the gasket sits in then put the gasket in place...

I would suspect as much, myself, but I've had my cam seals go out and weep back along that gap between the head and cover, looking like a VC leak. One good way to confirm, imo, would be to remove the upper timing belt cover. With the belt and gears exposed up top, bad cam seals wil almost *always* result in oil being spun off onto the underside of the hood. emoji

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bolverkchaos	Nov-16-07 11:11 AM
Member since Nov 10th 2007 7 posts,

#106867, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 12

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by mcgyvr from the pics it looks like the valve cover gasket is just leaking.. I always run some RTV around in the groove that the gasket sits in then put the gasket in place...

I would suspect as much, myself, but I've had my cam seals go out and weep back along that gap between the head and cover, looking like a VC leak. One good way to confirm, imo, would be to remove the upper timing belt cover. With the belt and gears exposed up top, bad cam seals wil almost *always* result in oil being spun off onto the underside of the hood. emoji

Huh, there's nice spray right over my Timing Belt on my hood, I hadn't thought it was oil, but that makes sense, I've been leaking oil for a while. So that must be one of them. Damn.

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Nisshoku81	Nov-16-07 04:31 PM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106869, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 9

Originally posted by DR1665
Looks like cam seals to me. I'm sure you meant to say that Mitsu will not fix it for free. Now is the time for you to learn how to do the timing belt. You can have those cams out and be replacing the seals yourself in less than an hour with just TWO sockets (maybe three at most), but you have to reset the timing belt afterwards. First time out, just plan on a full Saturday to do it. You've got a sharp car, man. Don't trust it to anyone other than yourself. You can totally do this and we'll help you. All you really need is a floor jack, a basic set of sockets, and a special puller they will let you borrow for FREE at Autozone and you're good to go. Look at it as though you're paying yourself $100 each hour you spend working on your car instead of having a shop do it for you.

Thank you for your input. I will go out and purchase cam seals and a timing belt. Why not just knock both of them out at the sametime. I never replaed any of these myself so I don't know the level of difficult this job is. If you have any tips for me, can you let me know please? Other wise I will start reading on how to replace these and get the job done. Thanks again for your help. I'll keep ya posted. I'm going to also install my brembo cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads next week. I will show you those pics once complete.

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Nisshoku81	Nov-22-07 03:37 AM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106914, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 14

Hey guys, I'm going to be installing my new rotors and breaks this saturaday. I know when you bleed the breaks you have to start from the furthest area and work your way in. Do you have any tips that may help me out?

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djtrickee	Nov-23-07 03:52 PM
Donating 2GNT member 5924 posts,

#106939, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 15
Nov-23-07 03:53 PM by djtrickee

Originally posted by Nisshoku81
Do you have any tips that may help me out?

Ya. It's Brakes, not breaks...

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

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Nisshoku81	Nov-23-07 08:38 PM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106940, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 16

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by Nisshoku81 Do you have any tips that may help me out?

Ya. It's Brakes, not breaks...

Yeah, typing to fast and not paying attention. So what tips can you help me out with?

Thanks

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daes_venge	Nov-25-07 05:06 PM
Member since Jun 25th 2006 252 posts,

#106946, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 17

If your just replacing pads and rotors, then why do you need to bleed the system? Just take your reservoir cap off before pressing the caliper pistons in and you should be good to go.

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justins71	Nov-26-07 08:41 AM
Member since Oct 25th 2007 466 posts,

#106954, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 18

Yeah, no need to have to do any bleeding unless you're changing out calipers or opening the fluid system at any other point.

A tip if you've never done rotors is to have a couple M10x30 or so bolts (I think that's the size), as the rotors seize onto the hub, but have threaded holes you run the bolts through, it kinda reverse-presses them off. Shoot some lube on 'em first (Wd-40 like stuff), and make sure to run them off evenly. You'll hafta pull the caliper bracket off, two bolts on the backside of the spindle. Other than that, pads are pads.

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

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Nisshoku81	Nov-26-07 12:59 PM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106959, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 19

Thanks for the info. I installed them this weekend and they are working great. I did have to use WD40 to get the seized rotors off but all in all it was a pretty simple job. Now it's time to get my timing belt and cam seals replaced. I will post some pictures of the install sometime tonight.

Thanks again!

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Nisshoku81	Nov-26-07 07:17 PM
Member since Nov 11th 2007 174 posts,

#106961, "RE: Oil Leak"
In response to Reply # 0

Here are those pictures I said I would post.

My Engine Bay

Random Car Picture

Toyo Proxes FZ4 tires installed last week

Cross Drilled / Slotted Rotors and Brake Pad

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