I just got done trying to torque my head studs and one broke insidfe the block. Am i f@cked or can i extract it. I pulled the head off of course and the broken half is deep in the block where it threads in. Should i just give up on this car or try and extract it. Any help would be appreciated.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

They can be extracted. They're surprisingly soft (i've had to drill through one)

Was this a new stud, or a reused stud? How many times had it been reused? How high were you torquing?

This is the first time I've heard of one breaking.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



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It was reused, it has been torued about 3 times before, but the motor never ran since i had ring problems(smoke at start up). I was doing the correct process for the installation, and everything was good except for the one that broke. I have done this plenty of times on my motor since it has been in and out for the past 2 years and this is the first for me also. I will try to get an extractor kit, and see what i can do. Thanks

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Mmmm that's a big WTF. Hope you get it out!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

it shouldn't be too hard to get out so long as you didn't torque down the stud into the block too tight. And just incase you don't know how to remove it here goes a step-by-step:

1. Center punch the broken part of the stud as best you can (this will help getting the drill bit started without it walking)

2. Drill through the broken bolt with the right size drill for the extractor.

3. Hammer the extractor into the drilled hole and then take a tap wrench (or 2 crescent wrenches or 2 open ended wrenches) and turn the extractor counterclockwise (Just like removing the stud).

Hopefully the broken part of the stud comes out with the extractor. If not, you might need to drill out the broken stud completely and re-tapping the hole (or take it to a shop depending on tools available or capability).

Once again, sorry if you already know this but I thought I might jot it down just incase you didn't (better safe than sorry). Good luck sir and hope all goes well getting it out!

Had it happen on a Corvette I worked on at my work about 6 months ago. And Dino is right, surprisingly (sp?) the studs are pretty soft.

Here is what I did and it will take you 15 minutes to get it out, even if its flush as fuck with the block.

1. Center punch the stud. Go to a Napa and get a spring loaded center punch, that way you get it right in the middle. Hit it about 3-5 times with the spring punch.

2. BARELY drill a 1/8" hole into the stud. Barely, I mean about maybe 1/16".

3. Go to Sears, yes I cant belive it, sears sells these, they cost like $18 per bit. a REVERSE drill bit. Put the bit in the hole you drilled, get a decent but not too powerdill drill, push down with some leverage and hit it, I bet your pissed off pants it comes out on the first try.

Works like a charm.

P.S. I even found a video of a reverse drill bit for you a MAJOR dousche bag showing you how it works, lol.

http://www.askthebuilder.com/Reverse_Drill_Bit_Video.shtml

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Everything I would do has already been stated, but I if you search on tooners some, some people say that the ARPs start streching under high boost loads and use another kind of stud I think.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Thanks for the good replies, i will try it this weekend, if not i guess i will have it drilled out at a shop and retap it

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

I believe that the stretching some see is due to the fact that people don’t properly cycle the bolts before applying the final torque. The cycling is what moves the elastic portion of the curve to the right thus making the yield point closer to the point of UTS (ultimate tensile strength). After cycling the bolt and applying a final torque when the bolt then experiences an increase in tension that surpasses the original yield point the bolt will elastically deform a small amount instead of plastically deforming a large amount (comparatively speaking). This is because the new stress-strain curve has shifted and now the stud is experiencing tension in the elastic region where it takes considerably more stress to deform the material than if it were in the plastic deformation region.