We'll my Piece O' Junk is back up and running. Stock rebuild, Getting it back monday morning. From this point forward reliability will be paramount, no more immature ricer/racer shit, I'm tired of waking/taking the bus/trolley or borrowing my mom's zx2.

1.What do I need to keep AWAY from doing and for how long/often?
2.What do I NEED to do, and for how long/often?

I just got my 55mm TB, and finished matching the manifold yesterday night, next will be buying a clean K&N and putting it on the stock intake tube, a crankscrapper+windage tray, finally put on those GSX brakes, and the rear disc conversion.

The car didn't sound like a "fresh out of factory" car when I went to check it out saturday, but it sounded just as it did before the blown HG or better. Then again the engine has 0.00 miles on it, and the ECU will need some mixed driving to relearn it. Thanks in advance guys, and hope to hear from you ASAP!

I took this from Corbin's write-up. I hear a lot of different theories on this but I plan on using this one once I get my new engine fired up. Hope this helps you out.

Find an empty stretch of road and do a 30 to 50 mph run and compression brake back down to 30 mph. Keep the car in the lowest gear that will keep you below 4k RPM max. Keep the car in the low gear during the compression braking to pull a lot of vacuum. Do this repeatedly for the next 20 miles. Now, drive in stop and go traffic for the next 200 miles. Stay off the interstate. Use your gears and vary the engine RPM when cruising, still keeping under 4k RPM. Compression brake when possible. Don't lug the engine in a high gear. When you hit 220 miles, change the oil and filter again. Use cheap dino oil again. Do the same stop and go traffic crap until you hit 620 total miles. Just change the oil this time (cheap dino oil). Do the stop and go traffic thing again, but mix in some highway cruising if you have to. When you hit 1,020 miles, change your plugs and do a compression test. If everything looks good, you can put the wastegate actuator back on (but keep the boost low). Change the oil and filter again with cheap dino oil. Drive in mixed stop and go traffic and interstate cruising until you hit 1,520 total miles. Now, you can change the oil and filter with full synthetic or whatever you would normally use. If everything seems to be running well, you are free to drive the car how you want now. Full boost, rev limit, whatever it was built to handle. Have fun and keep it between the lines!

Props to Corbin!

Awesome, I had read that before but didn't think of going back to it. Funny thing is that it took me 3 years to put 3000 miles on the car since I bought it. So it'll take me a year and a half to put 1,500 miles for that break in process. Just got to remember not to go past 4k rpm, ill make me a sign and put it right on the steering wheel or something

There are many diff ways to break in a new motor.
When I rebuilt mine, I got on it hard after about the first 350 miles and just did alot of stops downshifting. I have had zero problems with anything now engine wise for the past 2 years now.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I think I see what you are saying. Either a hardcore but SHORT break-in or a LONG but soft one. I think I'll ease into it though, I don't wanna risk anything. Just got the car like 1 hour ago, and I couldn't be happier. They left the engine bay spotless, and powder coated my VC for me! HOLY SHIT, I was impressed, they got lucky I was going to repaint it black though. The car sounds great, I feel like I'm holding way back though, I hear the engine "purring" and I want to romp it, but then I remember that I shouldn't! My god, these next few months are going to be hell







EDIT: Sorry for the Camera phone pics, and yes...I park in front of a church... No way in hell am I parking in the trolley parking lot.

Glad you got it back. Very sharp looking car. Good luck on the breakin and let us know how it comes along.

Will do bro. Thanks for the compliments. I think the new engine has 31 miles on it now, including the test drives the shop did. I can't wait till I put the 55mm TB this weekend, and install my GSX breaks and rear disks. As for the outside, I need a new passenger side marker because the little plastic tab broke on mine, so I have it on the back seat.

EDIT: OH SHIT! Since they took the engine out of the car, this means they used some cheepo tranny oil to fill it back up right? Or is the tranny oil retained even though the engine and bell housing where separated? If so I guess I need to go to the stealership and get me 2 bottles of tranny fluid and do a quick flush... then again I should wait 'till I buy that clutch from DR1665.

Yeah, disks look a hell of a lot better than the stock drums. (Of course I'm assuming your trading out your drums.) That is probably one of my favorite upgrades on my RS. I'd spend a little bit more on the disks if you have to by new ones though. I went for the cheaper ones from Brembo and they rust really fast. You can get them coated I think to help keep that from happening but its been so long ago I can't remember. Also painting the calipers is a pretty easy appearance upgrade.

As for the tranny fluid... that depends on how they pulled the engine. If they pulled the whole thing then had to dump the tranny fluid. If not chances are they still dumped the tranny fluid. I probably would have but hey, I'm my own mechanic. Also check your reciept if you got one. I'm sure if they used a quart or two of anything you're paying for it and its probably listed. Are you auto or manual?

Im manual, and yea the calipers are getting painted red to match the car.