Ok I FINALLY got my car running well again...drove about an hour and noticed a rattling noise from under the hood. Then clutch went out because I lost all my hydro fluid somewhere and so I topped it off and got it working again then noticed that rattling has gotten louder and more constant. Sounds like it is coming from around cylinder 4 (either in the block or the tranny, I'm not sure). My clutch is the SB DXD series 6-puck street/strip setup, so would a broken puck cause a rattling noise or no? Please god i hope it is just my clutch, because it is still under warranty. If it is a spun bearing, then I'm fucked once again. Sounds like a bearing, but I'm not gonna rule out a broken puck because I don't know that much about the situation. Any ideas?

-Ben
Black 1999 RS

Basic mods and a South Bend OFE-SS Clutch
~150bhp.....for now!

Step on the clutch with the car running, does the sound go away?

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

used the boom handle on the block trick to listen to the internals. i had my mom sit in my car so i can listen and here is what i found.....

1) placed handle on head and listened...no sound (not valve train)
2) placed handle on block near the freeze plug around cylinders 3 and 4...loud rattling
3) placed handle on tranny...loud rattling
4)instructed my mom to engage/disengage the clutch...still same noise with no sound level change

thanks for helping me pinpoint that mark. i never thought of checking by engaging/disengaging the clutch. we can now rule out a clutch/tranny problem. this sounds like the bearing in cylinder 4 though(cylinders 2 and 3 produces a faint sound, but 4 is very loud), so lets get ready for another rebuild!! on a motor with ONLY 850 miles on it....god damnit

-Ben
Black 1999 RS

Basic mods and a South Bend OFE-SS Clutch
~150bhp.....for now!

bearings are easy to rule out, drop the oilpan and inspect them. Good luck

Status: Sleeping, MS upgrades/rewiring.
99 Eclipse GS(with Turbo),Turbonetics 60-1 0.63a/r, MS II v3, 3" Turbo back exhaust, GSX Brakes, Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons, Eagle Rods, Crane 14s, SS Valves, Felpro Gasket Kit, Obx Lsd, Southbend Fe Clutch, Ebay Short Shifter, Pioneer Avic-N3, 12" Alpine Type-R

update

i came home this weekend and began cracking on it at 11 this morning. dropped the pan, crossmember and down-pipe and get the the bearing. took off my caps and this is what i found: (pic might not be the best, if needed i'll get more)
Top Row = Top Bearing
Bottom Row = Bottom Bearing



Cylinder 2 somehow managed to get put in backward so the locking piece was on the smooth end rather than the etched end(my dumbass fault) and ended up spinning in the rod opening (i think it called a journal but i dunno...correct me if i'm wrong) itself...Cylinder 3 somehow got a gash in the middle of the bottom only (debris maybe?) Cylinders 1 and 4 just have wear from dirt getting embedded into the bearing coat.

Took my bearing to the local machine shop and asked what needed to be done. He said new bearings (obviously), may have to have my rod resurfaced to .030", possibly a new (or just cleaned out) oil pump (it brand new!) and possibly but not completely sure...my crank journals reground. So here is my question...can i replace the one rod (for #2), get new bearings and put it back together? I will have to clean the rings/pistons and other 3 rods...shouldn't be unusable since they only have 850miles on em. Think this is possible? I'm trying to save money but prevent it from happening again later on at the same time. Figured around $250-$300 new pump, bearings, one rod and a possible regrind...or around $500ish for a complete new set of rods, bearings, pump and a regrind. Not as bad as I initially thought, so can I do it the first way or is that not advised?

-Ben
Black 1999 RS

Basic mods and a South Bend OFE-SS Clutch
~150bhp.....for now!