well as the title says this is about ebay cam gears. found a set of onsoku adjustables for $105 shipped and thought might as well give em a try. heard some good things in my research on neons.org but also heard you have to offset the exhaust timing slightly (like 1 tooth) or adjust the gears a little to run fluently. some good thing i heard is they are some pretty solid cam gears and once you get that timing set right they run exceptionally well. i figure they got a 1-yr so if they break for some reason i'll get my money back and get real ones, but i guess i will never know how they work until i try. ordered them last night so they will be here by next weekend, so when i get em and my car running i will give a feedback on the gears. until then anyone else heard any good/bad things? Onsoku Adjustable Cam Gears

let me know what you think and i will let you know how well/poor they work after i get them on and running around for a little bit

-Ben

they don't look half bad quality wise, I'd pull apart the set screws and see what they use to hold everything together, maybe add some lockwashers if needed.

just remember that to get the true potential out of the adjustable gears you'll need to spend some time on the dyno.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Do they give your engine a 1-yr warranty also?

Mike D
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-Ed

'95 Eclipse RS-T
'91 Laser RS (Sold)

true you have a point there that i didn't think about...well shit i dunno, hope they don't break or if they do hope i just bend valves instead of putting holes in pistons (knock on wood). yea it's a pretty penny either way but valves are a little less expensive to replace than pistons and the whole 9 yards. but i guess to argue that point, any gears can break...on neons.org has an example of some guy's high dollar crane gears breaking. i'm trying no to think about that though...i just wanna know if they work! lol. will let everyone know when i get em

also, what is the best set up? for now i don't have money to dyno tune them, but definitely plan to before winter hopefully...if not then EARLY spring. was fortunate enough to find a dyno tuning place here in town that i'll try when i get a few extra bucks. so until then i did some reading here on the boards and it looks like +2 Intake/-2 Exhaust seems to be the best universal setting...but also read you want to try to not play with your exhaust cam if you can help it and the another said +5 Intake/0 exhaust...but won't that bend your intake valves being that high without low-clearance pistons?? so which should be max...2 either way?

-Ben

Try the +2/-2 for now. See how it runs, AFTER you get all that timing belt stuff taken care of. You can also just try +2/0.

I contributed to the Wiki.

that what i figured i'd do, but wanted a second opinion on here before i did it. my parts shipped out today so hopefully i'll have my gears/tensioner around wednesday so i can fix the thing when i come up home next weekend. if your free aaron, it'd be great if i can get a hand...but if you got things going on it's cool. sry for bugging ya all the time. don't mind me i'm just a newbie who is up to his chest (before my car broke i'd be in 100ft over my head...good sign i guess). all i can say is hopefully the new tensioner and the dreaded intake cam seal fix my problems. i suppose my rough idle could be from retarded exhaust cam timing but will not rule it out. i have a gut feeling that my tensioner is screwed(it's a factory original part to my knowledge...lasted 150,000 miles though bout time to go out anyway...) and i think that oil seal is just lubing up everything up to make it worse. thanks for all the great input everyone...it is much appreciated.

-Ben
Black 1999 RS

Basic mods and a South Bend OFE-SS Clutch
~150bhp.....for now!

My cam gears came in Wednesday and I just got to look at them tonight when i rolled back into town. here are a couple looks up close that i took with my cam....the first one is of the back

Looks like the screws thred right into the gear themself instead of going into a nut or anything else. in my opinion, i'm thinking that is a good sign of sturdiness, but you guys would have better knowledge about this and if it will be sturdy or not.

the second one is upclose to the front, they look the same but i figured i'd put it up anyhow. the warning sticker on the gear teeth state your are to torque the bolts down to 15 ft lbs. should i so just 15? or should i go slightly more so they don't move. i know over torquing can cause damage, so what is the best torque weight setting that i should use to tighten these.

-Ben
Black 1999 RS

Basic mods and a South Bend OFE-SS Clutch
~150bhp.....for now!

15 ft.lbs. will be plenty for those small bolts. Just think, spark plugs are much larger, and torqued to just 20 ft.lbs.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician