So it looks at first glance to be 11mm, on second thought maybe a 7/16" - but either way, the bolt will strip. one of them is already messed up, and every time I strip a bolt I feel like I get -10 points in life, I hate it.

Chiltons' says these are only torqued to 27 ft/lbs + 1/4turn. Then why are these giving me so much difficulty? Luckily, this is on the junk block (just seeing what bearings gave way). But I also would like to take the caps off the new block to plastiguage my worries away(b/c I don't know if I trust the guy I bought it from)

I'm going to end up dropping in the new block and hoping for the best.

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

I know that it is an odd sized socket.

Mechanic said something like 10.4mm. Something most people wouldn't have in a garage.

-Ed

'95 Eclipse RS-T
'91 Laser RS (Sold)

I use a deep 6 point 11mm. I don't use air to loosen it though and I make sure that I keep pressure toward the rod. It does strip out kinda easy, but I have had no problem since using this method.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

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