hey me and my friend are planning a rebuild on his 420a and im real couriuos on some subjects,if we need to put in 0.20 over pistons do we get a the stock specs and just bore 0.20 over with a 3 prong bore check with a telescope guage till were 0.20 over factory the insert 0.20 over pistons is this correct?and if his crank is out of round and we need to take it to be machined how do we know what size rod bearings to insert?any info would be greatly apreatiated thx

if your taking the crank to be ground id pay for the bore to be done .20 over as well.

also no buying parts till the machinist is done! strange things can happen and the best laid plans can cause you to be rebuying parts (trust me i have 2 sets of rod and journal bearing because i bought before the machinist was done)

if the machinist is any good at all he will give you the specs of the parts hes done and should tell you what size bearings to get.
dont be afraid to ask questions or get a print out if you dont understand what hes saying. then take that printout with you when you buy the parts so you get the right stuff

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"Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it."
"My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."

Best sum up of working on a 2GNT
DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."


Ahhhh Priceless . . .
eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red"
RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"

so take the block in to a machinist to get bored,can i just do it myself so we dont have to pull the motor?

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

It would be very difficult to bore the block in the car and have it come out with the correct specifications. You're supposed to bore it to the size of the piston, not just .020 over the stock size.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Read this:

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

i have a question Corbin. when rebuilding the engine, did anyone tell you that you have to prime the engine first. someone said that i have to go to a shop and use this air tank thing that will pressurize my engine with oil. what would be the best way to "prime" the engine. put oil in the lifter wells, before i put the crankshaft, put oil in the holes? i did what the book said and i didnt get oil to rod 1.

a couple of my buddies that have worked on cars alot said that the easiest way is to put oil in the engine (obviously lol), disconnect the fuel pump and turn the key over for a few minutes, stopping then repeating a couple more times. i guess by doing this the objective is to get the crank moving and the oil pump operating at a low RPM without adding fuel to avoid damage while supplying oil to the internals. i guess you could really sit there and turn the crank with a torque wrench for about an hour...but who wants to do that? what are everyone else's' thoughts on this? possible?

-Ben

-Ben
Black 1999 RS

Basic mods and a South Bend OFE-SS Clutch
~150bhp.....for now!

2 sets of injectors is better than 1 =)

is the mfi relay by the clutch resivore

thats a good writeup there. there's just two things I would like to see changed in it.

1 being the part about puttin WD40 on the bore before piston instalation. Don't get me wrong, its by all means correct to lubricate the bore prior to installation of the pitons. But some ppl's motors sit for a while before they go in the car and WD40 tends to dry up after a while. Coating them in the motor oil your going to run in the car is a far better idea, and it has a better film strength, better for initial start up.

2 would be the part about dipping the headbolts in motor oil. I know ppl have done this for years, and I hear it at work all the time. But a good quality chromoly grease (your assmbly lube of choice) works far better when trying to achieve an accurate bolt torque. Weather your using bolts or studs, there's a certian amount of friction that exists on the threads that increases as the clamping force does, and more torque is required to overcome this. So improperly lubricated threads, and the underside of the bolt head or nut, can lead to improper stretching of the fastener and incorrect clamping force. wich will inevitably lead to gasket failure, if you don't damage the bolts in the process. There's also the one-in-a-million chance that you could create a hydraulic lock in the thread bore when tightening if you have to much oil on the threads and quite literaly blow out a chunk of your block while tightening things down. Just a thin coat of assmbly lube to the threads and the underside of the head or nut is ideal.

I'm not sayin the author didn't know what they where doin, it's a great read and I can see where it could be very helpful. But I build both stock and race motors every day of the week. Granted most of us on here aren't playin with a 1100 hp turbocharged LS1 motor like the one I just sent out last week. But why not add another 5 minutes to the job and make sure it's done right the first time?

Creative thinking? Ingenuity? Hell, It's just an obsession!



99 Eclipse GS turbo: MSpowered, everything custom built, 223.8 HP-199.8 TQ @8psi through auto-tranny. The first time around...