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Now, if I had a budget NA list, it would look like this: (NOTE: cost of alcohol used to bribe/pay friends for work not included!)
Cold air intake (used, for $50-100 or whatever you can get for it)
Turbo GS-T/GSX muffler ($50 or so used, if you can even find one) or punch out your stock muffler hey it's for the track so who cares, or anything cheap you can get welded on)
Hi flow cat ($50-100 without flanges, maybe $40 or so to get it welded on, or a case of beer to a friend who can weld)
Underdrive pulley ($160 new I think with belts, or less if you find a used one. it's just a chunk of aluminum so go used if you can, maybe $100 used?)
Ported intake manifold (free if you have a dremmel with a flex extension and plenty of time)
Exhaust manifold Ported (see intake manifold, I would not get a header as I never noticed a 1/4 mile improvement with one; besides I just ran my best time on the unported stock manifold)
Megasquirt (as stated previously, $200 if you do it yourself, $400 assembled, plus time of install and maybe a case of beer to a friend who can figure out how to program it if you are a computer knucklehead like me ) NOTE: my latest best run was on the stock computer! So a megasquirt tune would be very helpful indeed!
Or as a really cheap alternative a used SAFC, maybe get one for $50-100 or whatever, not as good as a meagsquirt but should help knock off a tenth or so
Used cams (go for mid stage or better, stage 2 crower, crane 16s, maybe $250 or so as stated previously, just a guess for used cams)
I'm sure head/valve work will help, but it MIGHT be possible on a stock top end. (that is just speculation.) However, uunless you want to take a chance with a higher rev limiter from your megasquirt you should look at springs/retainers/rocker arms. Hey you might get some 8000rpm passes on a stock valve train before something happens, but you skip work to save money at your own risk. I'll assume you are taking a chance and will skip everything but the cams.
TB 60mm (used $100 or so? as stated previously)
New drag radials, essential for low 60' and better 1/4mile times if you remember to warm them up and launch them very hard so you don't bog, justs keep the weight and size reasonable (my preference is nitto 555R, the 205/55R14 so they are as light as possible, slap 'em on the stock 14s, you can swap for the trip to the track or drive around with them in the summer I do all the time, who cares if it looks a little silly it's all about the racing, maybe $135 a tire for that size: I'm not sure it has been a while since I bought them. If you can find used tires in good shape, go for it. If you can find a decent 16 inch size, like a 205 or more likely a 225 and you find it's not too heavy, then give it a shot. I'll assume new 205/55R14 in this case.)
Sorry, just guessing with some prices. Total (assuming lowest price possible, new drag radials, use of megasquirt not SAFC, lots of free time for porting your self, and not including alcohol ):
$1070 bare minimum, probably 50% or so greater for most people, so this would still be about $1500. Possibly could go up to $2000 but I think the resourceful people here can keep the price around $1500 or so.
I'm still a tiny bit away from 15.0 but I haven't got the megasquirt tuned yet, so it should make a difference. That combined with drag radials and the other mods should help alot. "Tutto fa brodo."
Todd Scungio 98 RS 15.173 @ 90.70 MPH
And also a 2011 Ralliart
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