I just wanted to make sure before I go out and buy one that it will work. I am sure that it will but I am not 100% sure so I am asking. I have built a 95 block and it has a mechanical tensioner but because of the horror stories I have heard with the mechanical tensioners I want to go with an oem hydraulic. Can I use a hydraulic tensioner instead of the mechanical?
Originally posted by mreigle I don't get it. On the timing belt there is a hydraulic tensioner that is stock.
No I am not asking if I can use it with a built motor. These motors came with two types of tensionsers. I just don't like having to go back into the system and retighten it after the belt stretches. I will search for some more stories and make my choice.
Originally posted by mreigle I don't get it. On the timing belt there is a hydraulic tensioner that is stock.
No I am not asking if I can use it with a built motor. These motors came with two types of tensionsers. I just don't like having to go back into the system and retighten it after the belt stretches. I will search for some more stories and make my choice.
Neither system requires you to go back in and adjust for belt stretch. May I ask where you got that information?
I edited to the wiki!
Originally posted by DR1665 NOTE TO SELF: Go commando to wedding. Scar the Irishman for life.
#103710, "RE: Tensioner" In response to Reply # 4 Apr-03-07 06:02 AM by Kirby
There are two types of tensioners avail for the 420a. The hydrolic is the one that came stock, the mechanical (spring) tensioner system is the "upgrade". Link to the kit on parts dino here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt-Bearings-Tensioner-2-0-DOHC-Eclipse-NEON_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ230112094498 You will notice at the end of the listing that it is proposed that this system may give better performance. There have been some horror stories with each system, but I have had success with both. The mechanical tensioner has been on my car for over a year, and several thousand miles with no issues what so ever. Others have had some problems. I know Dino at one point was also using the mechanical with no issues. You can make whatever choice you like, but I believe both are viable ways of doing the job. They both have their quirks during install that can cause issues with the end results. I personally perfer the mechanical as it removes a known weakpoint in the system by removing the tensioner pully mounting arm that broke on me before.
I edited to the wiki!
Originally posted by DR1665 NOTE TO SELF: Go commando to wedding. Scar the Irishman for life.
2gnt. Why would I not have to go into retighten the belt? It will stretch a little after it runs, more so takes the slack out from being in a package. Would I just over tighten a little bit to take into account for that?
Originally posted by Slo2g 2gnt. Why would I not have to go into retighten the belt? It will stretch a little after it runs, more so takes the slack out from being in a package. Would I just over tighten a little bit to take into account for that?
I just ran a quick search and checked the only thread I found that mentioned retightening the timing belt was this one. There is no spec requiring a retightening of the timing belt in the factory manual or in the directions with the new tensioner. The only thing that is close is checking the belt by turning the crank 2 revolutions to check to see if it is still in time. There is no need to retighten the t-belt with either product, and the belt will not have any slack from the packaging. If you can find the thread that talks about a retightening I would like to read it. There is no need to do it though..
I edited to the wiki!
Originally posted by DR1665 NOTE TO SELF: Go commando to wedding. Scar the Irishman for life.
I swear I remember reading it on here somewhere. If there is no need in retightening the belt then I am def. going to use the mechanical set up. It is kind of like the head studs, you are susposed to go back and retorque them after a few cycles but does anyone really do it?
I don't think there is anything wrong with using the mechanical tensioner as long as you know what you are doing and can follow the installation instuctions. There must be a million of these mechanical tensioners in use in other vehicles already from OEM.
I personally have never heard that the 420A, as it appears in Eclipses and Talons, ever came with anything other than a hydraulic tensioner. I've torn down many motors and have always found a hydraulic tensioner.
Anyway, you must cut a small portion of the rear timing cover away so that the tensioner bracket mounts sit completely flush with the mounting bosses. You must also pay very close attention to the pre-tensioning procedure. You can over tweak the spring inside the tensioner if you are not paying attention.
Stock cover. Circular molding flash lines mark where you need to drill.
Drilling the plastic with a board for a backer.
Test the fit
Mount the parts and be sure the tensioner bracket does not rock back and forth. It must sit flush to track correctly.
Mount up the other parts and rotate several times checking tension and timing marks carefully.
Tab lined up with spring at TDC indicates proper tension.
Movie clip of the pre-tensioning procedure. Right click "Save as" Please
Search
Printer-friendly copy
1 User in Chat
