Hi there guys, haven't posted here in a while. But now I have a few issues, and I think it could be bad.

1. The top of the timing belt is all scratched up. The usually white numbers and such ontop have been "rubbed" off, as well as some rubber.

2. In the morning (while the car is cold) there is a loud whining noise (possibly belts?), that becomes much louder when doin a sharp turn, and last time it came on it was while I was waiting on a red light in traffic.

3.The whine also appears (some times) when I roll both of my windows up or down at the same time (alternator?). Btw, I did the power conversion on my RS.

4. Lastly, and I think this is the minor symptom, but the one that appeared first: If I have my headlights on, and I turn off the car, my lights flicker and the beam becomes noticeably weaker.

A member is comming over this sunday and we are doing the timing belt, Water pump and finally installing my AFX UDP. Just in case you guys need do do the diagnosis, I only have minor mods: Pacesetter 4-2-1 header, MSD wires, CAI and GST exhaust. No major electronics in the car, just a SONY headunit, stock speakers (Which I plan on replacing) and LED gauge cluster conversion. I havent driven the car as often as i usually do, because im kinda freaked out, the belt might snap. Illtry to get some pics and posting them along with this. Sorry for the Wall-O-Text.

youre going to need to do whatever you need to do to replicate that sound, and have somebody listen, with a stethoscope, screwdriver, chassis ear, etc to found out where the hell its coming from. if your timing belt has marks all over it from rubbing against something, yea...something is going on there but that might not be related to what youre hearing. check it all out. the letters coming off isnt that weird, the belt rolls on the backside over the idler...I dont know what your belt looks like though, I mean if its obvious its rubbing on something youll be able to tell. if its missing letters and thats it...I wouldnt worry so much. how new is it?

also, as far as the headlights being dim...get an ammeter inline with the chargeback wire from the alternator to the battery and see how much juice its giving you (amps not volts). An inductive pickup works the best. if its not in spec, your alternator needs to fly off a cliff. low voltage wont make the lights dim, low amperage will. it all goes together though and one effects the other directly.

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96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

Ill definetly keep that in mind even though, im baffled by half of those procedures



here's a quick pic I took right now, its not deep scoring but the scratches are uniform all along the width and lenght of the belt.

It looks like the belt is riding on the outside of the cam gears. Have you had the Timing Belt Drive Sprocket off lately? If so, check that you have it on all the way seated against the crank.

take the timing belt cover off and see whats causing it to rub

heres a picture of an inductive pickup, probably have seen one:



all youre doing is checking the big wire from the alternator to the battery for the right current

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96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

cool, like I said, tomorrow morning a few local 2gnters ar comming by an we are doing the timing belt ans stuff. Wold you guys recommend I leave the Timing belt cover off? or only the outter part? by the way Turbo8u how much does that piece of equipment cost generally?

no dont leave the cover off in my opinion. as far as rhe inductive clamp, I have one for my DVOM but it was a gift so i dont know how much it was. You can always just use a starting charging system tester if you can get your hands on one, like a sun machine or something smaller.

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96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

Couldn't tell ya on the timing belt, but since you're replacing it this weekend, just be sure you have everything done by the book. Check out the outer surfaces of the pullies to be sure they're smooth. If any of them have any slop to their movement or appear gritty where the belt rides, this could be causing the rough finish to the belt.

As for the electrical problem. That, to me, sounds like a slipping belt. Mine's a couple years old and I get a bit of cheap, pulley whine (exacerbated by driving through a blizzard last month with no splash guards and 80% of the t-belt cover missing). Again, since you're replacing the crank pulley with the UDP, you'll be installing new belts, so just be sure to get that pulley on all the way and ensure your belts are properly tightened.

Oh yeah, and check your power steering fluid just in case. I've got a leak in my system (hose beneath the reservoir) and, when the level drops low enough, the PS pump will start to sound like an old Ford Aerostar when turning. You know, that typical, shitty PS noise that pretty much *every* Ford makes when turning.

Good luck.

well the job didn't get done, the guy ended up going somewhere else, and the other "got sick"... on super bowl weekend... anywho, they said maybe tommorrow, but now im kind of worried, because last night i tested the window switches again. when ever i press, or pull on both my headlights go WAY down in light. Wont the UDP make this worse?

In my eclipse, I used to be really anal and I freaked out because I noticed when going down the highway if i did both windows at the same time my headlights would go down.

It's not really a problem. I think what you are going to come to find out is that your belt or belts are loose.


http://talontimes.blogspot.com


99GS
95TSI

From my experience just hope it's not your belt tensioner, if your still driving it that is. Mine looked just like that and I thought -oh well I'll just change the belt later, it's not that bad. Well, I had to pull the head about 2 days later cause my tensioner bolt was broke, the timing belt was completely shredded and the bent valves needed to be replaced. I'd double-check that tensioner bolt just to be sure.

Well, half of the job WAS to replace the hydraulic, with the mechanical tensioner I got from PD. Thanks for all the heads up guys.

PIECE OF SHIT ON A STICK!...

Well, remember the high pitched wine at idle, during a stop light? Well it happened again, but this time, the battery light immedietly came on..but went off a minute later.

Does this mean that it might just be the alt. working harder to keep the battery charged because its dead or is it that my alt. is taking a shit on me, so it cant even keep the battery charged in the first place?

Check connections at Alt and battery and every where between. Might be a loose connection or a bad spot in the wire itself. Remove the Alt and have it checked at the local Auto Parts store.

I have witnessed this on a customers car when it came into the shop here.. has signs of wear on the belt and a weird whine, we pulled it apart and the idler bearing practically fell right off , bearings went out, i dont even know how it didnt blow the belt off..

www.cimotorsports.net

i believe if you unplug the battery while your car is running and it stalls, your alternator is shot.

1995 eclipse, dropped--1981 camaro z28, 360hp

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician