im trying to find my problem of why my idle is so ruff.i opend up the TB set screw so it stays steady at ~1.5k. but with just the set screw set the rmps should stay almost exactly at 1.5k or w/e i set it at right? mine is goin from 1.4k to 1.7k it doent stay steady. what does this mean? what could be the isse and could that be related to my shakey idle?

Because the throttle stop isn't there to adjust the idle. Idle speed is set by the ECU by way of the idle air motor.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

ok, so when i pressureise the system, my EGR lekas air , is that normal? and if if is then idk wtf, b/c i cant find ne other leaks or sensor failures to fix my idle issue.

The EFR valve, the tube, the port on the back of the manifold, what?

It shouldn't, no. You may have a bad EGR valve.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

the metal part, that attaches to the head, that big cluster fuck looking thing that then attaches to the vac hoses and the hard pipe. so that should be hississing any air when i pressurize? i took it for a drive, it goes fine but when i let off, it idles low and almost dies then it compensates for a sec then almost dies again and it really ruff. could it be the ecu?

I dont think the EGR should be leaking like you say it is. I would suggest replacing it. I think you have a big vac leak and the ECU is detecting it and compensating for the air loss with more fuel therefor causing your ruff idling and what not.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

alrigt guys, try again, i just checked my other 2g, 420a boosted, and the egr does the same shit and it wont hold pressure when i put it in, but i have no problem with this car, idles fine and holds 6psi of boost just fine.. so ne other sugestions?

could it be my cam gears? they are aftermarketm, set at 0. if i try to retard or advance, how do i do it? i read 1 deg at atime, but if u retard one do you retard the other? or retard one and if tha dosnet work advance the other? and how do i do it?> losen those screws?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

yah i know..
yes i checked timing driggs and terry already pointed their finger and said to check it when i first had probs..the marks line up at TDC. ans u can see the 1 mark is on the top of the tooth while the other is on the bottom, so i met in the middle. i searched and some mebers say these came marked perfect, others say they suck, and arnt marked right, just like the AEM ones. so mayb this is the reason for my "v8" stumble idle. so its either these cam gears or my ECU is fuct. the cam gears are 0'd , but if the marks are ff that donsent mean nething, im going to look at the cam holes and that will tell me. so if i have to move them, i unscrew the 5 nuts and turn the cam it self? and is it hand turnable??

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4059598

What kind of cam gears are those?

Do you have a stocker cam gear, line up a stock gear to that gear and see if the marks line up correctly.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

they r findanza , and they are on the car.. yes i have stockers, but idk how well i can get them in there to compare.

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

well this is a learning experiance, i know the EGR is fine, so thats not an issue.. i put the stock TB back on so thats not an issue either. it still throws a cel 21, which is 02 sensor, i replaced it with one i know is good, so it may be the back one. i want to learn how to do this stuff. and im in cali.. a reputable shop. yah....last time i took it to a shop, the told me my HG was blown, that was at satan..and, thats after satan replaced it 1 kmiles ago..and the local speed shop is honda exclusive assholes..go figure. ppl here dont know much of nething.. thats why i ask and search looking for ways to trouble shoot. now by doing that im here with these few optons left.

i think i get the pricipal, un bolt the 5 not all the way but so the cam can move then u adjust the cam to the deg making. i did reseach and ppl have this problem alot with aftermarket cam gears. and i dont plan on adjustin the exhaust manifold due to the cam magnet, and i dont wanna mess up gnition.

i dont really have multiple probs with the car, it just this idle. could my bas valve seal caused bad idle? and now after doing the top end the seal is good and its a timing issue? at least i fixed the smoking/HG/head (thanx dark one).

OUt of curiousity, have you looked for any oil in your spark plugs? That wont cause a low vac reading, but it would a crappy idle.

You said you replaced all your valve seals already?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

....yes ive looked. i did a full top end re build. new gasketsa and all, no short cuts. and no theres no oil. there was before the rebuild, but not now.
repacled:
CTS
EGR
cam/crank sensor
fuel fileter
msd wires/coil
plugs
IAT
map sensor
the plug type sensor in the intake mani (idle temp?)
TB back to stock
compression is gtg to 195~200 across(warm).

i dont think i missed ne thing, so now its pretty much down to timing, my marks on on but yah they are aftermarket and could be wrong, so i my idea for adjusting them corret? thanx

dont try adjusting them, i gurantee you do not know what you are doing.

If you want to fix it and do no short cuts like you said you did the head, take the timing cover off, it only takes a few minutes, and line up your stock gear to that fidanza gear and make sure the marks are the same. I have had my timing off by like a 1/4 of a tooth before and i could have simply adjusted my gears to make up for it, but that is half assing. fix it the right way. also, you said that satan did your HG like 1k miles ago, that means they set your timing or did you re-set it after you did the head? if the dealer did it, why havent you brought back to them to have them check it?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

just drop the satan situation its a long story, i moved and 1 dealshoip siad it was HG the other didnt, then they told me to take it back where i got the work done, 3000 miles away, and yh , i called complained wrote letters to the dealrships and dodge and yah nothing can be done since they are a dealership. so yah it pointless to go there. so ill comapre the marks an dif its off re time them...thats what ur saying correct? is there ne way i can just adjust them - or +2 deg to even see if it is the deal?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

happy turkey day to you too,
i know ur not tryin to be an asshat(haha, i love that word) the drive isnt 3 hrs. its literaly 3 days.. like i said 3000 miles..i called dodge they said they have NO control on what independant dealers do on non-warrnty vehicles. it got to the point where the dearleship that did the repair, the ower was a dick and he lafed and said " fine, ill fix it for free if you drive it back.." lets see , broke ass HG driving 3000 miles, the odds it wil make it , plus the time i have to take off and what not.. not worht it and yah 800+ for the HG, and they redid the timing, and it ran fine after they did the repair, for a while, then the stupid idle developed. and it smoked worse (this is all b4 i touched nething..). the smoking was the bad valve seal( i didnt know about at the time). any way no dealrship wil repair it without me paying for it. and now the "yr warrnty on parts" is up, but that didnt really do shit since it was blown in the 3rd month after the repair.. it doenst warnnty the labor done.. so satan= asshat... yes i know it wil mess up timing, i did alot of searching on the idle problem, thats why i swaped all those componets, i say swaped b/c i have a boosted 420a that i swaped the parts from that i KNOW works fine. so i really didnt spend too much $$ on new parts. thats beside the oin. i learned about timing and i know enuf that i made the mistake of timign 180 deg off, but now i can time it well, minus the fact i didnt re-mark the new gears..so i wll set it at TDC , remark and compare it also to the holes in the cams. i did do testing on the 02 sensor and it sweeps Voltages fine, not alot of fux once it warms up, like .5 i beilve? its been a while. you darkone and driggs are pretty much my teaches, so i dont take your advice lightly. ill dop the cam comparson and get back to ya. and if its off, then ill spend the 6~8 hrs to retime it. thanx guys for the help , it really is appreciated.

and on the timing, i know i dont know how to adjust thes aftermarket ones, thats why im askng, and IF i were to do this, i would either retard or advance depending on the cam holes, since at DC they should be both straight up. but ill do the cam comarison b4 i do nething..\

(sorry bout the 55866385673 spelling and grammar mistakes that im sure are in the abovecrap..hahah)