Well the MSD ignition came in today!!!!! ....................still no start
so the only other thing i could think of was bad head gasket warpped some valves.( what led me to think that was because after i did the motor swap its always ran hot)
well guess what i checked compression in the first 2 cylinders and #1 had 50 lbs and #2 had 74.....needless to say i didnt go any further.
so my questions are.....first off im trying to get a loan to just get it all done at once but if not can i do lifers valves retainers all of the goodies and not have to get cams right now. second question im gana keep this car N/T so i wont to build it for N/T what would be the best way to go build the head as in parts and what all i should get done to it....
please help me out guys because i really have no clue
#100661, "RE: Head rebuild time" In response to Reply # 0
Before you pull that head, be sure to do a wet compression test.
It's ideal to test while the engine is up to operating temperature, but if the car isn't running, well, you've got no other choice but to test it cold. Complete the test. Be sure the throttle is wide open when you do so, and disconnect the ASD and fuel pump relays on the firewall (driver side, two big lego block-looking things). Then ddo your dry test over. Once you have written down your numbers, no matter how weak they may seem, do the test over, but this time pour a cap full of motor oil into each cylinder. If the numbers go up considerably, this is a sign that your piston rings are shot and you might avoid a head rebuild.
Redo the tests and post back with the dry and wet numbers so that we can give you a better answer of what to do. You're looking at some serious elbow grease either way, so we might be able to give you a better idea of what to buy in order to get the most out of the money you want to spend on this project.
#100663, "RE: Head rebuild time" In response to Reply # 1
well i've been planning to rebuild the engine for a while now so this is was going to happen i already have the motor out of my spare car ripped arpart and ready to be built. so this is just an exscuse to wast the money sooner then expected lol. so im gana just get the head built and while i've got it out im gana go ahead and pull the whole motor and get the block hottanked to get it good and clean and put new rings in it. ill be doing all the labor ( pulling the motor tearing it apart puting it back toghet) myself i just need someone to put the valves and springs in the head. so i just need to know what i need to order. I've also heard that geting the head port and ploished isnt that great of a gain??? what do you think i know its pricey but if its a good gain i might as well get it done. but like i said before i am staying N/T i just wana see whats the most i can get out of this motor staying N/T. so heres the things i need to know.
What kinda cams/retainers/lifters/valves all work good together lol
#100683, "RE: Head rebuild time" In response to Reply # 0
Looks like im just gana do a full motor rebuild if i can get this loan ill know for sure tommrow well this is what i've come up with so far
Bottom end Crower Rods JE 8:8:1 Pistons .20 over Melling oil pump STD rod bearings STD main bearings ITM water pump T belt with bearings ARP head and main studs Cosmetic .020 headgasket
Head Qualfast STD valves Crower springs with titanium retainers BLE solid lifters felpro valve seals SBI quides Crower stage III cams
also full gasket set all adds up to a total of
$3,627.87
now my only question that set up is for boostin really will it run right under daily driveing with no turbo for now. i know i said i was stayin N/A but if im gana go all out im going all out. im trying to get a 5k loan and i cant find a turbo kit to fit my budget right now.
#100688, "RE: Head rebuild time" In response to Reply # 3 Aug-28-06 08:38 AM by DR1665
Crower Rods - save yourself $200 and stick with Eagle. Bend an Eagle rod, then decide you need Crower.
Cosmetic .020 headgasket - Get the OEM MLS. I've heard a number of people in the DSM community talking about Cometic HGs taking a shit on them.
Qualfast STD valves - why are you replacing them? Unless they're bent, get them cut and reinstalled.
Crower stage III cams - You're not going to like C3s with a turbo. Consider the C2-turbo grind.
Everything else looked fine to me. You might look into whether or not the PT Cruiser lifters and roller are cheaper than those name brand units. Save a few bucks here and there. They're probably the same thing...
Your car will run just fine without a turbo. It does now, doesn't it?
#100698, "RE: Head rebuild time" In response to Reply # 5
Originally posted by xavier3jr true but its gana have a whole lot lower comression. and my valves are bent my timeing belt snapped...thats why im doing this :-P
My bad on the bent valves. Thought we weren't sure about that. You didn't mention the timing belt snapping until just now. Earlier, you suspected your HG...
And that compression isn't really all that low. You're not even a full point lower. Stock is 9.6:1. Your going 8.8:1. You won't even see a 4% reduction in horsepower at the crank. With the headwork and cams, I bet you still feel an improvement.
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