This is my first cry for help post in years. My car has been broken for the past 2 years, I havent had the time or interest to fix it. 6 months ago I started buying new parts and the bug has bit me again. In the past 6 months i've added the following. Newly built long block(brand new OEM timing assembly, OEM oil pump, new JE rings, Caleico ceramic coated rod and main bearings, ARP studs, 3 angle valve job, balanced and blue printed by local race engine builder), megasquirt w/ relay board, full 3" turbo back w/ custom 3" stainless v-banded dp, totally new FMIC setup with 2.25" stainless lower piping and 2.5" aluminum upper piping, AEM wideband, Tial 50mm bov, full braided -6an feed and return setup, Corbeau CR1 racing seat and MP 60mm TB. So as you can see lots of stuff went in.

My car is assembled and will not turn over, and i'm absolutely stumped. ASD relay tested, i'm getting 12 V to the coil. All fuses tested for continuity, all fine. I checked the connection at the Cam and Crank position sensors, the are seated tightly. I'm getting all kinds of fuel pressure per my aeromotive and I assume the MS is firing the injectors, this however i havent tested w/ a voltmeter. Timing was checked before i dropped the motor in and i removed the inspection cover and it looks as though the cam gears are spot on. Heres what has me all kinds of confused. When i was turning the crank I heard the ASD and FP relay reset themselves. Everytime I go though a full revolution the same thing happens, they reset. Another wierd occurance, that may be completely legit, is that when I pulled the connection at the cam position sensor they reset again. I'm doing all this w/ the key turned to ACC.

So can you guys think of what would make the asd relay reset when the motor is turned to a certain point? Same w/ the cam position sensor, is removing it and plugging it back in something that normally causes the relays to reset??? I thought maybe i had something wired incorrectly w/ the MS and disconnected my connection to the crank position wire, thinking maybe i was sending 12 volts to it or something (it was late and a shot in the dark) and it still reset the relays when i hand cranked the motor. Is there a chance something is wired incorrectly? I can tell you that the oil pressure sending unit is NOT connected, nor is the injector harness or egr system. I did take a test light to the cam position sensor, it looks like with my light connected on the back end to a 12v signal that i'm seeing one solid ground, one alternating ground when the car is turning over, and one power wire.My digital voltmeter crapped out on me and i'll be buying another one but is any of this sparking an idea as to what you've seen in the past????My first guess is to replace the cam position sensor w/ a loaner since the relays reset themselves at a certain point and it also resets when you disconnect and reconnect the cam sensor connection.

I'm stumped and could really use the knowledge. Thanks guys.

-Chad

400whp or bust.

if the car wont even crank over then your hunting in the wrong directions. Check from the starter back. Make sure you have 12v from the positive battery cable at the starter. Next check the solinoid wire at the starter while someone turns the key. You should have 12v there as well. IF you do not have 12v on the solinoid wire then check the connector that is about 8 inches to the right. There is a single wire connector in the harness that is to disconnect the solinoid wire. Make sure you reconnected that as well.

Still no start? Check the fuse box and make sure you have power to all fuses with the key on. If you have a portion of the fuses with no power then you have a fuseable link blown or you forgot to hook up one of the white wires at the battery that feeds the power distribution.

Terry

The car turns over, just doesnt start. I relocated the battery to the trunk and hooked up a breaker in the engine bay. Everything that was connected to the battery is connected to that breaker. Will someone do me a favor and turn you car to the ACC position, then go disconnect your Cam position sensor and plug it back in. I curious if you'll have the relays reset. I'm about to just hook up the damned MS to fire the coil and call it a day.

With some testing I did discover that my DIS 2 box may be going bad, its only sending spark to one of its coil triggers. I've bypassed the msd box completely and am back to stock setup. The ecu is still not sending the ground to the coil triggers.

400whp or bust.

if you're not getting coil triggers, it's a bad cam or crank sensor.

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If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Thats the first two things that I checked. I'll see if I cant get some loaners for trouble shooting purposes. I'm wondering if its common that when one of the two, or both, go bad that the ecu resets the relays when a certain spot on the revolution is reached. I'll see if i cant search some more for anyone else who has had this happen.

400whp or bust.

Yeah when my 2 month old crank sensor started to go out, I got a day of some random ASD relay/circuit cutoffs/restarts, then all a sudden no spark.

Swapped it out with another new crank sensor, and no problems with it since.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Seems like I was already on the right path. The sensors were the first two things that came to mind when I had no spark. After my first rebuild the harness was loose and it did the same thing. I'll get in touch with a local 420a guy and borrow some sensors for testing. I'll keep you guys posted, but if anything else comes to mind i'll be checking this thread so please shoot out some ideas b/c i'm about out of things to look for.

400whp or bust.

I borrowed the Cam sensor from Kon, car still not firing. I'm gonna double check that the sensors are good by putting them on his car and making sure it will start(probably rule out the ecu by doing the same thing). Unless I have 2 bad Crank position sensors then my problem is elsewhere. I'm gonna pull the valve cover off to verify the cams are spinning, Nate reminded me of the guy who had a dowel pin break off and his cam wasnt spinning. Then the only thing I can think of would be the ecu. I'm running out of options.

400whp or bust.

Just do spark with the MS too and don't worry about it

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Originally posted by DarkOne
Just do spark with the MS too and don't worry about it

400whp or bust.

Ok, we've ruled out the crank sensor, cam sensor and the ecu. I put them on Kons car and it fired right up...bah. Time to start checking the voltage at the sensors. My egr valve made the harness kinda nasty and I thought I cleaned the wires up and covered them up well but maybe i'm getting shitty resistance from these charred wires and whatnot.

400whp or bust.

I found the culprit. I bought a new voltmeter today and started probing around the ecu for voltages and whatnot. I checked the 8v output to the sensors and found my plug for the CrPS was getting no juice. I had an extra harness plug that I wired up directly at the ecu and I now have spark. There must have been a short somewhere after the Yellow pin split off to the CmPS because there was absolutely nothing at the CrPS. I'm heading over tonight to start my car for the first time in 2 years, i feel like I hit the lotto

400whp or bust.