Ok so i perform the timing belt change. Everything seems to check out fine. Put the entire car back together.

start it up and its start immediately. all seems good, running smooth no stange noises, no valve chatter, and i watch it climb to normal temps while it idles.

I figure all is good. then, i give it gas and about 1500 rpm it starts to to make a somewhat loud clicking noise. but not a rapid click. almost like a pinging noise but not as metalic sounding.

it is turboed and im like 70% sure the turbo compression chamber is leaking because there is a slight smoke screen coming out of the exhaust and near the turbo. (becasue original owner used same size line for both the oil in and and oil drain to the pan.)(i did correct this though with a 8an drain)

i cant pin point where the noise is coming from. but I PRAY its not the timing belt. That thing was a pain in the ass!!!

is there a way to check if its engine ping due to timing?

thanks, jason

PS the idle seems great. right around 800 with no stuttering.

ok, i took off the inspection cover and got a wrench on one of the cams to turn it until the two cam notches were aligned. they lined up nicely. at least they sure look aligned to me.

but is there a way to see if the crank is not aligned without having to pull the pulley off?

is it possible the crank could be off one notch or would i have some much more serious issues?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

That is a great thought!...has anyone ever heard any noise ie. pinging or clattering when there timing was off and they had the engine running at different rpms.

please chime in. i know there have been several people who have reported their timing being off.


If the answer is no then my timing should be correct and im dealing with another issue that is causing the clanking noise under rpm.

hopefully its not that stupid mechanical tensoiner. that thing was a total pain in the ass. the belt does stay on the cams nicely though with no overhang so i dont think it is rubbing anything.

does the 2gnt check for engine knock? will it throw a code? maybe something is wrong with one of my injectors when i reinstalled them and its not supplying enough fuel under load.

i dont know im lost on this one, but its definetly a big problem.

also i pulled the number one plug and the piston seems to be at the very top. i stuck a long screw driver in the hole and when i turned the cam it dropped and never really raised so i strongly believe its alinged. i just havnt found an easy solution to check the crank with out tearing apart the engine again, pulling off the pulley, and covers just to see that damn mark on the crank

From my experiences...

Timing.

Dead on, all marks: Perfectly smooth idle.
Half tooth off, Nearly perfect idle, almost lopey.
Around a tooth off: Idles like a Harley Davidson Motorcycle.

The next step is a loss of compression, where the engine will not turn over, followed by actual interference.

It could be an exhaust leak.

If you decide to pull the crank pulley to inspect timing by using all the marks (the only way to do it right, by the way), use a Dremel or knife of some sort to cut an access panel in the cover that would allow you to see the lower marks. If you have a UDP, be sure to install it with one of the holes lining up with the mark on the crank sprocket. If you do this, you can inspect timing at any time by simply removing the wheel and access panel up topside. Real time saver if you ask me.

Well you found my trick for getting TDC without pulling the timing apart. I have had my timing as far as 4 degrees off and never a pinging, pull the inspection cover off the timing cover and watch the belt as it runs, the belt should not move up and down at all. It should run as if it were on a track.

Next pull your valve cover and mack sure all the rockers are aligned correctly and that none have fallen off.

Next do a compression test.

Lastly start looking for exhaust leaks.

Terry

The OBD II scanner results came up with P 132 which was like 02 sensor high volts. I am buying another 02 sensor. But im not sure why it is throwing a code.

No other codes. Im sure the EGR one will come on soon but it hasnt yet.


I finnaly got my air fuel guage hooked up and it reads all the way rich.

Is it possible that oil could effect the 02 sensor which is why it throws a code and why the a/f guage reads rich. (i think there is still some leaking in the exhaust down pipe because of the leaking turbo seals.)

the belt runs smooth.

valve cover rockers aligned? how do i check them? visually? and if one had fallen off wouldnt it make nosie at all rpms?

i'll do a compression test tommorow. i should get 190-210 correct for a 420 NA engine.

thanks for the input.

Damn it. I just did a compression check over lunch.

The numbers were 155-165psi across the board. Isnt that extremely low for a stock internals engine with a turbo.

Maybe my process was wrong. I took out all the plugs. Then I hand tightened the guage as much as i could since there is no way to get a wrench on it for each cylinder. then turned on the car and floored the acclerator pedal while it cranked a few revolutions.

EDIT: I forgot to warm up the car. hopefully that will raise it 20psi but i doubt it!!!

Could it be possible that my exhasut cam is off one full revolution? I read something about 2 revolutions, blah, blah. So even though the tick marks line up could it be that one cam is a full revolution ahead of the other.

Im still confused though, because the car starts fine, idles fine, revs fine, but there is just a strange rattling noise when ever i get about 1500 rpms that gets louder as I accelerate more.

next step, check for exhaust leaks i guess,

what do you guys think