Well, my Afx udp arrived yesterday and so I was ready to install it. Got the car apart and began to atempt to remove the harmonic balancer pully. First put the puller on the outside of the pully but that didn't work it just snaped the outside rim of the pully. I then put the puller on the inside of the pully thinking I could get a better grip. Began to pull and snaped the entire outer part of the pully off. now all that is left on there is the center piece I need to get off. What should I do? I can't seem to get the damn thing off and now I can't drive it. This sucks. Thanks guys

99GSX Auto 14b@17psi 13.345@102mph

You need to grab the center section with a strong pulley. a 5-ton 3-arm is what I used and it slipped right off. The back of the center section has notches where the 3 arms are suppose to sit.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

harmonic balancer? WTF is that??? haha, jess fukkin with you

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

Ya, I know there are three notches there but it just don't want to pop. We completley cut the outer part of the pully of so we could get a better area to pull on. It just don't want to budge. I am beginning to think I am screwed. Thanks guys.

99GSX Auto 14b@17psi 13.345@102mph

How far out do you have the crank bolt? I've found only 1/2"-1" at most backed out is the best to push against.

Una salus victus.
It's not about being invincible, it's about being ready; for anything.



Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Intake Manifold 1/2, P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

I agree, have the bolt about 1/2 to 1 inch out to push on. Mine was hard but finally broke loose as I kept turning the screw on the puller.


________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

heat it up a lil and then try to pop it off, dono if you can get heat down there or not but its a try.


96ESi Mods
apex' dunk exhaust
injen cold air intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires

I contributed to the Wiki.

ya, its on there hella tight... u will know when it becomes loose cuz it will be realy hard to turn the wrench, then boom (for lack of a better werd) the bolt will spin a lil easier, and u will see the pulley movin off the crank....

and ya, what they^^said about the bolt

good luck!!!

03 srt-4 13.130@112.47mph (n2o, stock turbo, 10/2003)
now: 20g, portfueler, bpu+++ (track/dyno times tbd...)

i farted on your wiki

I guess doing things the right way was out of the question?

Use the three arm puller. But you could damage the crank bolt and possible the crankshaft too by using the bolt instead of the right tool. There's a long pin that goes into the crank to pull off that vibration damper. It looks like a bolt with no head or threads on it.

Don't heat it up because of the plastic timing covers, front crank seal as well as the timing belt.

It's not worth having to buy a crank just because you think you can do everything in the yard. Take off the splash shield, take your tools to the repair shop and take the belts off there. Then say NOW how much to take the damper off?

This may sound stupid, but make sure you are pushing against a longer bolt and not against the center piece of the pulley itself. I broke the pulley because I was pushing against the pulley and not against a bolt. Oh well, we all have our days.



Eric Madden

hey dude where did you get your afx udp and how much did it cost and have you installed it yet and if so did you feel any difference in power gain. cause im thinking about getting one as well as cam gears
thanks