I have a leaking problem on the inside of my car. It is from the rod the clutch pedal connects to on the firewall. My clutch fluid resevoir was completely empty. If someone could please help me on what to do because I am worried. Also I have another tranny in my garage, if I need to replace my clutch I would like to also put that in. Is there anybody in Tampa area that could help me with this?

Thanks,
Farzad

Replace your Clutch master cylinder, the seals went bad. Happens at about 90k-150k miles, normal wear and tear item.

For now, refill your clutch reservoir, and keep refilling it until you replace the master cylinder. Don't ever drive with the reservoir dry.

mine just went last month, went to autozone and bought a new master cylinder for $100, its easy to replace, but you need to bleed your clutch line afterwards.

1992 Plymouth Laser
-Bone stock for now.

I'm glad someone posted this because my clutch fluid has been getting empty every week. I think it may be the master cyliner too, though i don't see fluid leaking anywere. I think, I'll go with the rebuild kit.

intricatelines.com/ -graphics and vinyls

"Tell them of us and say,
For their tomorrow,
We gave our today."
-- The Kohima Epitaph

Thank you all so much, I have never worked on a clutch master cylinder. Could someone tell me how to replace it? Also should I buy the whole thing or just the rebuild kit?

Thanks agian
Farzad

get a haynes(sp?) manual. i have one(and i dont even know how to spell it), its all you need. It will take you an hour tops, just unbolt it from inside, pull the resevoir off, pull the line off, unbolt from in the engine bay, pull it out, replace the parts that the kit comes with, and put it back together. or, if you just replace it then it is even easier but it will cost you.

Yeah, its a fairly straight forward process..Start in the car under the driver dash, and you need to disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal. There is a retainer clip that needs to come out, then you can take the rod off of the clutch pedal. Next, there is one 10mm bolt on the inside firwall, that bolts the clutch master to the firewall, so while your are in there, take that out. Next get out by the master, and take off the fluid resovoir , or just take off the rubber line that goes to the master. Now take off the metal hydrolic line at the top of the master cylinder. All that should be left is the one last 10mm bolt that holds on the master cylinder to the firwall. After everything is off, just pull the old one out(there may be a thin gasket between the master and the firewall), and then reverse the order for the new one. You MUST bleed the system before using the clutch again.

Jack the front end up, and find the slave cylinder. Just follow the metal hydrolic line from the master cylinder, and you will find the slave cylinder, it bolts right to the trans, and the slave cylinder pushes on the cltuch fork. There is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, just like a brake caliper. Loosen the bleeder(be sure to have the clutch fluid resovoir full), and leave it open until you start seeing a flow of fluid coming out. If you see some bubbles pop out, keep it open for a little bit(this process is called "gravity bleeding", and it *may* take a while for the fluid to start coming out. After this, close off the bleeder, and get a helper to push on the clutch pedal. Have the helper push down on the pedal, and while he is doing that, crack open the bleeder and let the fluid/air out. Now, you MUST CLOSE THE BLEEDER BEFORE the clutch pedal reaches the floor and stops! Then, just repeat this process until there is NO MORE AIR BUBBLES coming out the bleeder. Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid resovoir so it does not go too low on fluid, if it does, then you will have to start all over again with the bleeding process. Thats it really, so have fun.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Thanks a lot I really appreciate all of your help, I should do this sometime this weekend and will let you know the results.

that clip holding all the pieces inside the master cylinder is a major bitch to put back in... that prolly took up more than half of the total time it took me to remove, rebuild, install, and bleed. is there an easier way that you guys did it? it's such a PITA to try to compress the spring and rod while trying to pinch that clip back in... the cylinder was too long to put in a vise or something for me too.

-marc

I did the install yesterday, thank you for the instructions XtremeRS. I just have one problem, the car seem to be bit harder to get into gear. Any idea as to why this would happen?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I just bled the clutch line again and it feels much better. Just wanted to say thanks to all that helped especially XtremeRS.

With tomorrow being Thanksgiving, I'd just like to say thanks for the kick ass search utility we've got here. I'm going to top off my resevoir, bleed the system in the parking lot, here, at work, then hit Autozone for the rebuild on my way home.

My master made it 177,870 miles before taking a piss on my ratty, nine year old carpet under the dash. Heh.

Okay. What the fuck.

All issues with that gay lock pin aside, the rebuild of the clutch master went off without a hitch. Got it reinstalled and had Vanessa help me to bleed the line this afternoon. Upon pedal being pushed to the floor, the clutch is not fully disengaging. I can slip into gear, but the wheel that is off the ground begins to rotate and the engine bucks (stalling out). I have...

• bled the clutch some more (clean fluid coming out, no bubbles at all)
  
• adjusted the shaft on the master twice, to the point of the pedal bottoming out the master and no longer activating the clutch safety switch (which I have temporarily disconnected)

Just rebuilt one last night that had 90k miles on it and pissing it's guts on the floor board. Really easy over all but putting that damned C clip back in was a pain. I ended up having my roommate compress the piston down while I jammed that bastard clip in.

_______

BPU'd skittle