in the middle of my swap . everything is done exept the master cylinder hard line to flex hose . i dont know how it routes around stuff cuz its a little bent , pics would be great . Also i do not know the location of where the bracket goes that holds the mc hardline to flexline . Please help quick

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99 eclipse rst
cobalt blue met. paint,star stage 2 upgraded t3/t460trim turbo ceramic coated , polished compressor housing, ,optima yellow top, chrome i/c piping ,front mount ntercooler ,apexi turbo timer . zeitronix wb02 ,faze oil ,boost gauge,egt ,bosch 4x plugs,kyb agx struts, pro kit springs.17''adr venomous rims,Falken azenis ,brembo dilled/slotted rotors ,turbo xs bov ,oil catch can,manual shiftknob,autometer pyrometer egt , vortech sfmu,b&m fuel pressure gauge ,accel 310cc injectors ,gasketmatched and polished intake manifold ,58mm throttle body ,no egr,polished turbonetics wastegate,fuel pump rewire,homade fcd and a lot more .LED reverse lights ,sidemarkers and tails .atx to mtx swap . South bend tz clutch . Tons more
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The hard line runs over and underneath the master clutch cylinder. When you unbolt the ECU you will see electrical tape wrapped around a white plastic bracket. The hard line clips into this piece of plastic.

There should be a bolt hole that the tab for the hard/flex line screws into. I don't have pictures handy right now.

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Thanks i got it now . Question though on the wires that need to be grounded . i heard 2 different ways and it kind of got me confused . There is 1 black w/yellow stripe on the tcu harness inside the car .There is also 2 black w/yellow wires on the 10 pin plug that went on the atx trans . Which ones have to be grounded ? Also does one of them have to actually run to the clutch pedal or just grounded to chassis ?Everything so far is done and im gonna be getting it running hopefully tommorow .

LED tails : Done for now!
99 eclipse rst
cobalt blue met. paint,star stage 2 upgraded t3/t460trim turbo ceramic coated , polished compressor housing, ,optima yellow top, chrome i/c piping ,front mount ntercooler ,apexi turbo timer . zeitronix wb02 ,faze oil ,boost gauge,egt ,bosch 4x plugs,kyb agx struts, pro kit springs.17''adr venomous rims,Falken azenis ,brembo dilled/slotted rotors ,turbo xs bov ,oil catch can,manual shiftknob,autometer pyrometer egt , vortech sfmu,b&m fuel pressure gauge ,accel 310cc injectors ,gasketmatched and polished intake manifold ,58mm throttle body ,no egr,polished turbonetics wastegate,fuel pump rewire,homade fcd and a lot more .LED reverse lights ,sidemarkers and tails .atx to mtx swap . South bend tz clutch . Tons more
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My contribution to the wiki
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=crank%20arm%20spindle%20mod%20to%20fit%20power%20panels

One of the main things you may notice if you do a transmission swap in a 420A powered car from automatic to manual is that your speedometer doesn't work, your car has a 6K rev limiter, and your reverse lights don't work. There is a solution.

To solve the rev limiter problem, simply use a manual transmission engine computer. This will raise yoru fuel cut to 7200 rpm and your ignition cut to 7800 rpm.

To fix the reverse lights, simply get a harness plug for the manual transmission reverse switch (it is located near the front of the transmission) and run both wires to the 10 pin harness that was originally hooked to the front of the automatic transmission. One wire should be run to pin 1 on that harnes (black wire with a white stripe.....goes to the reverse light fuse) and the other wire should be hooked to pin #6 which is directly below pin 1. Pin 6 has a red wire with a blue stripe coming from it. This should get your reverse lights working again.

To get the speedometer working again, you will have to get the factory plug from the M/T speed sensor (might have to get it from a junk yard) and you will need to run the #3 pin from the harness to pin 66 on the lower ecu connector. This will be a yellow wire with a white stripe. This wire is hooked in parallel with your speedometer and should still send a pulse signal to it. the middle wire from the speed sensor should be sent to pin 43 on the lower ecu harness. This will be a black wire with a green stripe. This supplies an internal ground for the circuit. The #1 pin from the speed sensor should be run to pin 44 on the lower ecu harness. This is a solid yellow wire. This supplies 8 volts to the sensor, which is the normal operating voltage. DO NOT SEND 12V TO THE SENSOR.

This system works because the auto transmission computer takes signals from the intput and output speed sensors and converts that to relative speed pluses that the engine computer and speedometer can use. Without the auto transmission, the EATX-ECM has no output to the gauge or ECU. This electrical re-wire should fix this problem. Pin #3 on the speed sensor should have a little more space between the center plug than pin #1.

To restore cruise control and be able to start the car, you must hook up the clutch pedal switch. the black wire with yellow stripe from the 10 pin harness used for the transaxle range switch should be located in pin #5. This wire should be hooked up to a clutch pedal switch that is grounded while depressed.

All of that information is courtesy of www.armond30.com. It should answer you electrical needs. When you look at the 10 pin connector that comes off the atx that is referenced there are 2 black/yellow stripe wires. Only one of them will allow the car to crank when it is grounded. I just have my NSS grounded to the ECU bracket.

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Thanx . i have already read armonds write up and have everything wired up . It just cranked up first time ,shifts smooth and clutch pedel feels good . Another successfull atx to mtx swap and i got to say i didnt know what i was missing . wow .The only semi problem i got it that the trans make a slight humm when your not on the clutch pedal but as soon as you hit the clutch it goes silent . The new tob and clutch probably just needs to be worn in a lil . Also the clutch engages with the pedal about 3/4 of the way down but to shift it has to be pressed to the floor . Just want to know if thats normal ? The pedal does have a nice pressure to it .

LED tails : Done for now!
99 eclipse rst
cobalt blue met. paint,star stage 2 upgraded t3/t460trim turbo ceramic coated , polished compressor housing, ,optima yellow top, chrome i/c piping ,front mount ntercooler ,apexi turbo timer . zeitronix wb02 ,faze oil ,boost gauge,egt ,bosch 4x plugs,kyb agx struts, pro kit springs.17''adr venomous rims,Falken azenis ,brembo dilled/slotted rotors ,turbo xs bov ,oil catch can,manual shiftknob,autometer pyrometer egt , vortech sfmu,b&m fuel pressure gauge ,accel 310cc injectors ,gasketmatched and polished intake manifold ,58mm throttle body ,no egr,polished turbonetics wastegate,fuel pump rewire,homade fcd and a lot more .LED reverse lights ,sidemarkers and tails .atx to mtx swap . South bend tz clutch . Tons more
http://imageshack.us>


http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=boosted60trimrst
My contribution to the wiki
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=crank%20arm%20spindle%20mod%20to%20fit%20power%20panels

After you fill it up with clutch fluid for the first time and you start pumping the clutch to prime the system, it probably developed some small air bubbles in the system. Give it a day or two and rebleed the clutch and the pedal will probably firm up. My clutch starts disengaging about 1" down off the top and is fully disengaged about 1.5" from the top of the pedal. That may be due to the modular Fidanza clutch and flywheel setup though.

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