Just like the title states. My clutch is really soft and it is catching the gears really low. Also, I'm having a hard time even shifting into gears. Do all these signs point to a bad clutch that needs to be replaced? Or could it be another problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Sounds like a leak in the hydraulic section. For right now, you can check for leaks, bleed the system and adjust the pedal so it engages farther up on the pedal.

As a clutch wears, the friction disk gets thinner. To clamp the thinner disc, the pressure plate must extend farther making the spring fingers point outward more. This will in turn make the slave cylinder piston remain farther out of the slave cylinder since the resistance or pushback of the fork pushes the piston into the bore. Now you would naturally assume the pedal would not come as far up on the return since the fork is no longer pushing the slave piston as far into the slave bore. Not true. The clutch master will push the pedal back to where it normally stops and rather than suck the slave piston in, fluid from the resevoir will fill the gap. Now when you press the pedal, the clutch should release at the same point.


Signs of clutch wear is slipping.

Terry

Take a flashlight and look up under the dash at the firewall where all the clutch pedal stuff goes. Chances are good that you'll see signs of a leak down into the carpet right away.

This is a good thing. It means you just have to spend $17 on a clutch master rebuild kit or $35 on a rebuilt clutch master. Both can be had at Napa. Aside from bleeding the clutch, it's about an hour's work with less than five tools. (Beats the hell outta buying a new clutch, imo.)

Thanks for the replies. I'll check on the leak tonight when I get home from work. If it is a leak, how easy is it to fix? I wouldn't consider myself very handy but is this something I should be able to do? Or would it be better for me to take it to get fixed?

others may disagree, but it is in my personal experience that the rebuild kits dont always work. i rebuilt my master cylinder, it lasted about a year and then failed. I then rebuilt my slave and about a week later it also failed.

Advance Auto Parts were really good to me, and had brand new replacements (not OEM) sent and received next day at no charge, both were $60.

What i suggest is to go to a part store and pick up a haynes manual, that thing has saved me so much money. It tells you step by step how to do the replacements... I have no experience with the "rebuilt cylinders", if it were me i would spend the extra money and just get a new one, but thats totally personal preference.

1998 GS
Mods: Cold air intake, Ported/polished stock intake manifold, AFX 55mm TB, Pacesetter header,
Custom Magnaflow cat-back exhaust system, AFX Underdrive pulley,
B&M short throw shifter(cut/welded), Symborski Shift Kit, Solid front motor mount, Monster ground wire kit.

Status: Finally up and running!

If your not mechanically inclined, rebuilding is not for you. Theese are hydraulic units, the seals and the cylinder must be as clean as can be.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

1998 GS
Mods: Cold air intake, Ported/polished stock intake manifold, AFX 55mm TB, Pacesetter header,
Custom Magnaflow cat-back exhaust system, AFX Underdrive pulley,
B&M short throw shifter(cut/welded), Symborski Shift Kit, Solid front motor mount, Monster ground wire kit.

Status: Finally up and running!

yup. Hence the clean comment. Even a small particle can wear at the seals and the cylinder wall.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for