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Originally posted by TKI
I have (5) questions for you guys:
1) What kind of flywheels can we get for our cars?
2) Where is a good, reliable place to purchase one?
3) What is a good brand of clutch for our cars?
4) Where is a good place to purchase one?
5) What is the differnce between a modular and non-modular clutch?
I plan on going turbo, so what will do the best and be kinda easy to drive?
All excellent questions. All can be answered by searching, but here are some answers that are more likely to be correct:
1. You can get a factory steel replacement or a lightweight Al one. Personally, I think the lighter one is worth the extra cash.
3. Personally, I've had bad luck with SPEC clutches. Some people like them and never have problems with them, but the two pieces of SPEC hardware that were in my car failed, at seperate times, under normal operating conditions. When a spring fell out of my old SPEC clutch disk I was pissed, but I accepted it as a fluke. I bought a Clutchmasters stage 4 disk and bolted it up to the Fidanza flywheel and the used SPEC pressure plate. About a week later the SPEC pressure plate grenaded itself. I was VERY lucky that it didn't completely destroy my bellhousing. Was it because I used a Clutchmasters disk with a SPEC pressure plate? I'm not sure, but I doubt it. If anyone thinks this was the cause and has a good explaination, I'd love to hear it. I now have a Clutchmasters pressure plate, which is a tad heavier but is a lot beefier. It also doesn't slip like the old SPEC setup did. Again, these are my experences. A lot of other people have had good luck.
5. A modular clutch is the style that comes with the car. In clutch terms, modular means that the flywheel, friction disk, and pressure plate are all rivited together, so you buy it and replace it as one unit. There's a flex plate or a "starter plate" that has teeth for the starter that bolts directly to the crank, and after you get the transmission bolted to the block you bolt the flex plate to the modular clutch by means of an access port. It's "easy" to replace, it's what the factory intended to be used with the car. A non-modular clutch means that you assemble the flywheel, friction disk, and pressure plate yourself using 6 bolts where the rivets would be on the equivelent modular clutch. If you buy a flywheel that has starter teeth on it, you don't need the flex plate and the metal shim. I believe this saves a bit of weight. However, it's more difficult to install a non-modular clutch because you have the whole assembly bolted to the block, and you have to get the transmission over the assembly in order to put it all back together. The first time I did this, it probably took me about 3 hours to figure it out. The last time I did it I think it took me about 20 minutes. It's not fun. The secret is that you need to make the transmission as small as possible, so don't bolt any mounting brackets or anything to it until you have it on the block. Of course, if the engine is out of the car then it's a snap.
2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)
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