#2269, "RE: Spec stage 5 or Clutchmaster stage 4?" In response to Reply # 0
spec stage 5 is rated upto 650, not sure about cm stg 4 but thats what i have and it does fine... spec's are cheaper than cm's though... so i think a lot of people are going spec now... i know when my eat my disk up i will probably have spec resurface and put a new one in my cm stg 4 just to save a little $$
#2274, "RE: Spec stage 5 or Clutchmaster stage 4?" In response to Reply # 1
You wont ever make enough power to drive through a Spec Stage 5. i just dont know how "streetable" it would be. aka, killing your leg in traffic or chattering like a mofo.
1997 Silver RS Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!) Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 390's Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)
#2276, "RE: Spec stage 5 or Clutchmaster stage 4?" In response to Reply # 2
the stage 5 is an unsprung hub, which i know means ti will grab really fast, which would make starting from a stop hard, but after i get moving under normal driving im pretty good at matching the rpms from one shift to the next, just have to do it all the time. but with it being unsprung would it actually be a lot harder to push in then? like we talking like how hard it is for the 4g63 using the act2600 or would it be less... worse
#2280, "RE: Spec stage 5 or Clutchmaster stage 4?" In response to Reply # 3
Whether or not the clutch disk has a sprung hub or not has absolutely no bearing on how difficult it will be to push the clutch pedal in. The different pressure plate fulcrum point, clamp load, and distance to the TO bearing is what will change the pedal feel.
Matt 1995 Eclipse GS 2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi
1998 Eclipse GSX 2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...
#2303, "RE: Spec stage 5 or Clutchmaster stage 4?" In response to Reply # 4
if you plan on running 25 pounds of boost on a 20g with a 150 shot of nitrous and you have all of the supporting mods, get a cintered iron clutch. there were a handful of DSM's at the shootout with cintered iron clutches. i think Breant Rau (RWD 2G ACT car) has one of these clutches. i remember seeing him trying to drive the thing around into the staging lanes, it didn't look very fun, but maaaaaaan... i bet that clutch is a lot of fun once you're moving.
if you are going to drive your car on the street, buy a SPEC stage 3 or a Clutchmasters stage 4. i have the SPEC stage 3 and i like it a lot. give it about 750-1000 miles for it to properly break in before you house on it too much. there will always be a little chatter with the SPEC, but it's not that bad. it's a very streetable clutch that holds a lot of power.
there are a lot of people who also really like the Clutchmasters stage 4. i hear it also holds just about anything you'll make on the street.
you'll also have to decide if you're going to get a modular replacement (easy) or deal with moving to a non-modular setup. i have a non-modular setup with a Fidanza flywheel. it SUCKS trying to get the transmission back into place because the non-modular assembly bolts directly to the end of the crankshaft and it sticks out really far. was it worth it? maybe. all i'll have to buy when my clutch goes is a new disk, and have the pressure plate and the flywheel resurfaced (cheap)
