Ok well I'm gonna finally getting all my stuff hooked up. First off heres a list of what I have amp wise:

Alpine v12 Mrv-1507 2 channel amp Bridged running 4 ohm load
Alpine Mrv-f303 4x300 amp

Now I will be having the power wire run to a seperate SVR33-12 audio series Deep cycle high output battery and a 1 farad capacitor before running to the amps.

My question is, I have an U/R underdrive pulley on my car. will my alternator be able to take the power that will be drawn from this? I've seen some people with big systems but does anyone upgrade there alternator to like a 135 amp? Oh yeah, I will be using 4 gauge all around then 8 gauge from the cap to the amps. Any halp would be appreciated as I will be trying to get this done in a few weeks. TIA

95 eclipse RS

14.80 @ 94mph with no turbo

Well you could always try it the way you have it and make the determination. You may be ok with being that you have a cap, but if you can afford the high amp alternator i say it will be a good investment. Either that or another cap. peace

ASE certified master auto technician

You are not running enough power to require a high output alternator or another cap. I'm a little confused about the battery though. Are you running a second battery for the system? That's not really required either, but if so make sure you have an isolator. Hope this helps!

Allan
2008 Magnetic Black 350z NISMO /1976 Austin Mini 1098 Special (export)

Member# 1980

Well the second battery was donated to me from A buddy that spent like 4g's on his system. What exactly is and isolater. He didnt have one hooked up to his. And a cap was mounted with the second battery already but I also have another one. Well the reason I was asking is because that 1507 draws 67 amps and I know at Idle with an underdrive pulley I might be putting a good strain on the alternator since it puts out like 80 amps at like 1600 rpm or something. Just checking but I would like to know more about the isolater thingy

95 eclipse RS

14.80 @ 94mph with no turbo

Uhm....you have to have an isolator on that battery if you're determined to put it in...but you don't need it. I can't really explain what it is or does, but I know you need one. Ask the audio shop what it is, they should know. 2 caps are a definate for those amps. I would get the alternator considering you have a UDP. A lot of guys don't think you need one, but I'm a "rather safe than sorry" guy.

And why are you running 4 gauge to the cap and 8 to the amp? I thought those amps accepted direct 4 gauge imput?...if they do it's 4 gauge all the way.

Another safety measure with a high output system is a secondary ground return. Basically you'll want to take an area of your body in the engine compartment and grind off the paint (like you do when you're grounding in the rear), connect a 4gauge ground cable and run it to the negative side of your battery (since you're going 4 gauge off the battery). This will releive some stress from the system.

I would skip the second battery. You don't need it and the fumes could make you sick if you don't vent it right...just leave it out, put in 2 caps, you'll be good to go.

Thanks for the info so far everyone. Well the amp accepts 8 gauge directly but it wouldnt be a problem then to run 4 gauge with a two prong connector on the end and just clamp it down then right.

The guy I got the battery from was only running two memphis amps, one st1000d and a 4 chaannel so I dont know why the shop that did his install put a battery back there but When He gave it to me I thought it would help. If you guys think I'll be fine with two caps then I'll try that first.

I'll see if everything is ok with the stock alternator first then If I have any problems i'll upgrade it then. Is there any other tips I could use like the extra grounding in the engine comp. I'm getting an optima battery as well, should I get the yellow top deep cycle or just the red top starter battery? TIA

95 eclipse RS

14.80 @ 94mph with no turbo

Well I've called around to two different high end stereo install shops in town. They both told me the best way to go wold be to hook up the battery. They said they would do the battery first before the caps even. They said the battery is a deep cycle gel or dry cell and will not give off fumes as well. Oh and an Isolator is a selenoid hooked up inline from both batterys. It is grounded and has an ignition hookup so when the car is turned off both batterys are seperated, and when the car is on they are connected. I'll probably go with the battery and 1 cap since I already have them and there wired together already. One question I forgot to ask though is when the car is turned on and both batteries are then connected by the isolator. will that drain more power than just hooking it up straight from the battery to the amp? I am really excited about getting this all hookd up and any comments and help is appreciated.

95 eclipse RS

14.80 @ 94mph with no turbo

^^^^ smart question! first, let me say that IMO, you should ditch the second battery and the cap (well, keep the cap if you want it), but DONT use the battery. what will result is a heavier load on the alternator, becuase it will be charging two batteries at once, and at the same time trying to run the car and your stereo. if you DO decide to run the batteries, dont use an isolater, use a high-power relay. isolators can drop the voltage by as much as 1 volt, and that limits the power on the amps.

before you go off and buy another cap consider saving that money and selling the cap you have now to fund an alternator upgrade. logically, the ONLY way to upgrade the power to your system is by upgrading the cource of the power, so batteries and caps are bandaids that can actually HURT the alternator and decrease its life, as well as the performance of the system.

well, i could write all night about alternators and charging systems, but im tired. just trust your gut.

:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh:

^^^ Thats exactly right. I just actually talked to the installers at those shops and they gave me the low down. I'm just gonna try the system with the two caps and I need a new car battery anyway so I'm buying an optima today. That is also right on that the isolators drop the voltage. Well I'm stripping my interior and sound deadening everything next week then the installation starts. Thanks again for all your opinions. By the way heres the link to the alternator I was looking into.

http://www.4alterstart.com/pages/store/skudetail.nhtml?profile=highoutputalternators&uid=10662&catuid=10013&returnURL=http%3A//www.4alterstart.com/highoutputalternators

I'm gonna try it out with the stock alternator first and I'm gonna try and sell this other battery and put that money towards the H/O alternator If I need it. Thanks again

95 eclipse RS

14.80 @ 94mph with no turbo

1st..thanks for the feedback.

2nd..i have that exact alternator. its quite nice, the install was very straightforward, etc. the only complaint is that my idle output only seems marginally better (but than again, i have a low idle...around 500 RPM, so that could throw it off). throughout the rest of the RPM range though, from about 1000 up, there was a marked improvment. my lights NEVER dim while im actually cruising, and thats with about 1200 watts. theve got pretty good customer service there too, i talked to a couple of the guys on the phone (cant remember thier names).

:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh: