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as long as it sounds good to you..theres no reason to change it i would think youre getting a lot of rattling from the cover thing, though. firing the subs staight up in the hatch is a great place. it reduces destructive interference from reflected waves because the sound waves can only "bounce" off the glass and go in one direction, instead of "swimming around" and hitting each other.
as a general rule of thumb for sealed boxes: the bigger they are, the less power it takes to compress and rarefy the air in the box, so the sub can move more easily. the resonent frequency of the system also shifts down, so it will play deeper (up to the mechanical limits of the sub), but the responce will be spikier and it might loose som of the "kick". the opposite happens when you decrease the box size. to me, subs usually sound best in a box thats about 20-30% bigger than what the factory specs call for, but i like looooooooow bass because i have midbasses up front for everythng 60hz and up. you may not like that.
vented (ported) boxes: the idea behind these are to "line up" the back wave coming off the speaker with the front wave. these boxes are "tuned" to a certain frequency. below this freq. the sub looses all control and plays as if it were in open air. about 1.5 octaves above the tuning freq. the box peaks...this is where its loudest. it is possible to make HUGE gains in SPL by tuning a box correctly. to do this, you use a port of a certain length. the longer you make the port, the lower the tuning requecy is, and the "lower" and "boomier" the responce is. by decresing the port length, you are "trimming off" the low end of the sub, and re-inforcing the upper end. the only application this is useful for is in SPL competitions. anything tuned higher than about 40hz is pretty unlistenable; plus because the sub looses all control of itself below the tuning frequency (it "unloads"), its possible to damage the sub like this (unless you have a sub-sonic filter). the box also makes a difference. by making the box bigger, you can use a shorter length of port. the "peak" i mentioned before also rises in amplitude, but this can lead to choppy responce.
bandpasses are a combination of the above two, and are way to complicated for most people, so im not going to go into them too much 
theres also aperiodic bi-chamber, transmission line, infinate baffle, isobarik and more, but there not really worth it most of the time.
the real key to having good bass is to prevent cancellation from destructive interference. when the speaker produces sound waves, they are going to travel in every direction, not just straight ahead. if you put a box in the middle of the room facing upwards, and listen to it, the waves will scatter around the room, and bounce back to your ears at different times. the waves that go straight towards your ears will be affected by the reflected waves and canceled out. by putting that box in the corner, facing a wall, we force the sound to go one way, so the sound waves line up correctly. the same principle applies to the automotive environment. if your box is facing the back hatch or the glass, the sound can only go one way. if the box is sitting in your backseat, the sound spreads throughout the car before being reflected back toward your ears. thats why most vehicals sound better and louder with the box close to the rear, facing the rear instead of facing the front pushed up against the backseat.
ok...well thats enough for now. above all, the best piece of advise i can give you is to use your own ears and judgment...dont count on everyone elses opinions to make your decision..and have fun!!
:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh:
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