I was just thinking of this and wondered if it would work. Put a sub in a board and put the board over the spare tire wheel and then use sealant or caulk and seal the board to the metal and then bolt it down. Would this work? Or is there something I am no considering, i know for a real powerful sub I have have to calk the shit out of it and bolt that bitch like there is no tomorrow.
If that would work, that leads to these questions, the sheetmetal is rigid enough not to flex like a cheap box due to the sub, right? And finally would this cause excessive vibration (more than normally expected ) and loosen shit on the bottom of the car?
"Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Normal speeders will panic and immidiately pull over to the side. This is wrong. It arouses content in the cop heart. Make the bastard chase you, he will follow..."
"Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Normal speeders will panic and immidiately pull over to the side. This is wrong. It arouses co
#2096, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 3
why dont you be the first to try it? personally i think it would sound 2 echo like, but i guess if you insulated it well that would take care of that. imagin a home speaker tower made out of sheet metal.. i dont think the accustics would work, but then who knows... it could be the loudest bang anyone ever heard!! better make sure your exhaust is on good and tight!
-johnny
"Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Normal speeders will panic and immidiately pull over to the side. This is wrong. It arouses content in the cop heart. Make the bastard chase you, he will follow..."
"Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Normal speeders will panic and immidiately pull over to the side. This is wrong. It arouses co
#2097, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 1
Ya that's my install and it's not the stock board. It's also sealed, not just hanging there. The bottom is all fiberglass with mdf reinforcing it. I think what you want to do sounds like you need "free-air" subs. The seal would not be tight enough for a sealed enclosure type of sub, and the volume would most likely be too large. You can buy free-air subs, and make a new flat piece out of mdf (to replace the thin cardboard stock piece). But keep in mind you'd most likely have to remove your spare tire.
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2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl 1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl
#2098, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 5
by the way eclipse804, i like your setup. i was considering that but im too chicken to dump my spare. although i dont know why.. i dont even have lugs for the damn thing yet. plus i dont need cargo room really. how is the bass response on that anyway??
-johnny
"Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Normal speeders will panic and immidiately pull over to the side. This is wrong. It arouses content in the cop heart. Make the bastard chase you, he will follow..."
"Few people understand the psychology of dealing with a highway traffic cop. Normal speeders will panic and immidiately pull over to the side. This is wrong. It arouses co
#2099, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 6
The subs sound really clean, but I think I need better subs and more power to get deeper bass. Also, it doesn't travel very well outside of the car because they face straight up and hit the hatch window. If you want it loud outside, if you face them forward at an angle towards the windows, then it will be real loud outside too. My friend did that with his car. It is a LOT of fiberglass work to do what I have though (good thing I bought it off a socal dsmer used hehe).
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2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl 1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl
#2100, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 0
Using the spare tire well is a great idea, especially when it comes to space. But there is a little more work needed then just using a board and caulk. The metal surface is definately not meant for a speaker enclosure. Gut out the spare tire well. Make a mold of the well using fiberglass and MDF. Make sure you use enough layers of fiberglass to make the enclosure rigid. You don't want any "flex". Then, if you like, you can mount the board on to the lower enclosure that you made. Make sure that you have an air tight seal. Also make sure to use some sound deadening material on the spare tire well.
Allan 2008 Magnetic Black 350z NISMO /1976 Austin Mini 1098 Special (export)
#2101, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 7
If you try it without molding a fiberglass box, lining the well with alumium might be a good idea. Alumum is not magnetic. I don't know if an attraction between the speaker magnet and the car metal is good or not, but that doesn't happend in a fiberglass or wood box. So just grab the allumumum foil and throw some down for the heck of it.
#2102, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 9
Also, if you think that the well would be too much space, you could use some fiberglass insulation as filler and get rid of the tinniness you'd get from using metal as an enclosure at the same time....
#2103, "RE: subwoofer placement" In response to Reply # 0
Blmet:
Using the spare tire well is a great idea for an enclosure, but you really need to re-enforce the sheetmetal or you will get a lot of rattling and sympathetic vibration at certain frequencies, causing some interesting sounds. Also, sealing the replacment board with caulk will not create a tight enough seal, seeing as how the trunk floor is ribbed and all. Any air escaping will cause rear-wave destructave interference, reducing the output. I would suggest using fibreglass to make a mold of the tire well, and then attaching the mounting baffle (replacment floor) with more fiberglass. Its very important to have a riged and non resonant enclosure to produce good bass.
eclipse 804:
adding more power to the subs will not necissarily increase low end responce, as it tends to raise the amplitude over the entire spectrum, so if you wanted to ONLY re-enforce the lower frequencies, there are two things you can do: (a) change the subs out for ones that are better suited for a smaller enclosure (JL and Image Dynamics come to mind) or (b) make the enclosure volume bigger. note that with choice "b" the responce will be shifted down somewhat, so you might loose a little "kick", if you will. you will also get a larger "hump" in the response about a half an octave above the f3 point (point where the system is 3dbs below the average output across the spectrum, typically in the 40hz range in a sealed system). You could also port the system for lower range output, but it wouldnt really be feasable in an encloure that small, as the port size would fill up most of the enclosure.
) and loosen shit on the bottom of the car?
