watup, i want to run a custom box where my rear seats once were. i have to get an estimate of how much fiberglass i will need and resin to do the job.
also, i want to make it so i can remove it so i can get to the fuel pump if i need to when i go turbo. i have heard if i lay foil down beneath the fiberglass, it will come off after it dries.
also, i am goin to use wood for the sides to strengthen it up, and wood on the top. i will use mounting brackets on the bottom of the box to secure it.
so u all think i should make it with the rear side panels, and take out the stockers, or should i just have it seperately done, and have a gap where they meet??
i got sum good info from a fellow 2gntr (thanks) but would like to get sum more knowledge from the plethora that we have here. (big word, sorry)
thanks
btw, this may be in the wrong section, but i figure its for audio purposes it would be coo.
#1702, "RE: fiberglassin ? for rearseat enclosure" In response to Reply # 1
Vegas, If you have a boating place near you(which I doubt since you in the middle of the dessert) go there. Generally if you need fiberglass in large quantities its the cheapest to get it. Selectproducts.com is pretty good but their prices are high compared to what you can normally find the stuff for. As far as tips to fiberglassin, I generally laydown think plastic over the entire area im doing and spray it with Pam(cooking oil spray you can find at just about any grocery store) It just helps to stop the fiberglass from sticking. If your going to have a large flat area its better to use a board there. Fiberglass is pretty weak when you have a large flat area. You'll probably need a good quantity fiberglass and resin for what I think you have planned. Better make sure you cover everything. You don't want even a remote chance of resin falling on carpet or seats. It will never come out once it dries. Anyway, feel free to hit me up on AIM if you have more questions. "sdeclipse99"
#1703, "RE: fiberglassin ? for rearseat enclosure" In response to Reply # 2
exactly what sd_eclipse said, but if you go with aluminum, I think I'd get some mold release. You could use pam, but I'd feel safer with the mold release.
I also would leave the stock sides. It's just going to be easier. It's already going to be pain enough to do what you're doing. To try to copy the contours of the stock sides and make it look good and symmetric will make it the experience even worse IMO.
Make sure to insulate the outside of the box when you're done b/c the plastic on fiberglass or fiberglass on metal will rattle you to death. but, that's well into the future.
#1704, "RE: fiberglassin ? for rearseat enclosure" In response to Reply # 3
ya, thanks for both replies, i have been doin my work for this project, and have found sum pretty good sites where i can get materials/info from.
what would u suggest to insulate the areas of contact with?? im thinkin maybe felt or a thin rubber things on the contact points.
the box will be removeable, so ya, it will prolly make noise, but i wanna combat that w/mounting brackets and prolly sum jerry-ass-riggd insulator type thing that u mentioned (seen a rollerhockey wheel shuvd in my motormount?)
neways, thanks, and ill definately post away my findings if others want to know what i learnd
#1705, "RE: fiberglassin ? for rearseat enclosure" In response to Reply # 4
You're going to need a LOT of fiberglass, and I think it will take at least 30 hours to do what you plan to do...it should come out nice though. just to let you know, you should have the fiberglass about 3/4" thick, or at least 1/2" thick. If it were a box, you would just use 3/4" MDF, so I think it's the same concept with fiberglass. Mine is probably closer to 1/2" thick, but that is a lot of layers of sheets and resin. Also, work in a well ventilated area since that stuff is pretty toxic...good luck
________________________________________
2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl 1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl
#1706, "RE: fiberglassin ? for rearseat enclosure" In response to Reply # 5
You can wrap it in Dynamat or better yet use the spary on variety on the contact areas. My box drops into my spare tire well so I just sprayed it with undercoating. if you want a good seal to the box, make sure you put some kind of quick release terminals in when you lay it so you can run the sub wires from the back side, but still be able to disconnect if you need to pull it out in a hurry for some reason. I glassed in a set of banana clips for mine.....