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ya actually they made it real ez bro... those are the part #'s lol
jl 500/1 and JL 300/4
also nicknamed the "slash" series heres the info i was talking about b4... just better explained
Detailed Information:
R.I.P.S. stands for "Regulated, Intelligent Power Supply" and is a central feature of JL Audio's “Slash” series amplifiers. The remarkable R.I.P.S. System™ ensures consistent power delivery over a wide range of battery voltages and load impedances. "Regulated" means that the power supply adjusts its operation so as to maintain the amplifier's rated power output and low distortion operation over a wide range of vehicle voltages (11V-14.5 V). Conventional, unregulated power supplies allow rail voltages to sag in direct proportion to drops in the supply voltage. This can result in significant power losses when battery voltage decreases, even if those voltage dips are short in duration. This manifests itself audibly as increased distortion. With a JL Audio “Slash” series amplifier, the rail voltage and clean power output remains stable in real-world systems, resulting in superior fidelity and stability.
The "Intelligent" portion of the R.I.P.S. System is a circuit that actually monitors output current to optimize the amplifier's output power over a wide range of load impedances (1.5 ohm to 4 ohm per channel). Conventional amplifiers are designed to produce optimum power at a particular impedance (2 ohm, for example). When asked to run above that impedance (say, 4 ohm), these amplifiers lose power (half their power from 2 ohm to 4 ohm). This will not happen with a JL Audio “Slash” series amplifier because the R.I.P.S. System detects the actual impedance being driven and adjusts output rail voltages to deliver optimum output. The entire process is seamless, automatic, and results in incredible dynamics for satellite channels and consistent power output for a wide range of subwoofer configurations. It also takes into account the real impedance of the system, rather than relying on often inaccurate assumptions based on a speaker's rated impedance.
The bottom line of the R.I.P.S. system is: Optimum power, at any impedance between 1.5 ohm and 4 ohm per channel, at any vehicle voltage between 11V and 14.5V.
as opposed to 90% of the amps on the market... heres a look at JL's low line amps:
Rated Power: 800W Rated Power 12.5 V: 480 W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm 800 W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm Rated Power 14.5 V: 640 W RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm 1000 W RMS x 1 @ 2 ohm THD at Rated Power: 12.5V: <0.08% THD, 20 Hz - 250 Hz 14.4V: <1% THD, 20 Hz - 250 Hz S/N Ratio: >90 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz – 250 Hz noise bandwidth) Frequency Response: 10 Hz – 250 Hz (+0, -1dB) Damping Factor: >500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz >250 @ 2 ohm / 50 Hz Input Range: 200mV – 8V RMS Dimensions (L x W x H): 15.75 in. x 9.25 in. x 2.36 in. 400 mm x 235 mm x 60 mm
or even compare to the (dubble the price) Fosgate top of the line 1000 W amp (notice between the ******)
Channels 2 ******Per channel power 250W x 2 @ 4 Ohms RMS 1000W x 1 @ 2 Ohms RMS 500W x 1 @ 4 Ohms RMS Bridged Total power 1000 Watts********* Bridgeable Yes Crossover 12dB/octave Butterworth HP/AP/LP crossover Variable 40-400Hz Tone controls Bass Control variable 0dB to +18 dB @ 45 Hz Signal input Low level - Quantity - Type - RCA (1 pr.) Voltage - TBA
High Level - TBA Quantity - Type - Line output TBA Phase control Power input Connector - Block Wire gauge - TBA Speaker output Screw terminal strip Power supply topology MOSFET Output topology MOSFET Display Power - top mounted RF Swirl Protect - top mounted LED Thermal - top mounted LED Heatsink Type - Cast Protection Yes Remote control Included Type - Wired Controls - Bass 0dB to +18dB Class A/B Marine use no Specifications Stereo/Mix mono Yes Frequency response 20 to 20k Hz +/- 0.5 dB Dimensions H 2.4" x W 11" x L 17.7" (inches)
the JL (slash) series however will be the same wattage no matter what the impedance (ohms) so say u got the 1000/1 instead of the 500/1.... run 1 , 2 ,3 4, 5, fuck 100 subs.. and the amp will still pump out 1k watts.. as opposed to saying that u have to run 2x 4omh subs wired up paralell and bridged at the amp to get 2 ohms and 1k watts out of the amp.This will also save your the problem i have... of literally melting fuses to the casis of the amp due to the massive power draw (amperage) my amp pulls at 1ohm.
Anyway dude sorry if i bored ya... but i hope this helps while your shoppin'. If you have anymore questions feel free to pm or email me.
jake aka MrInFiNiT3 aka THA ATX GOD
mods include but not limited to: engine: AEM cai , pp head / TB / intake runners, Chikira 4-2-1 header , custom 2.5" exhast / pacesetter high flow cat/flowmaster2 muff,1mm over sized SS valves,PT valvetrain, AEM cam gears/pully set, prothane motormounts,440 injectors , ground kit. Trans: Custom ATX (1 of a kind) poly-graphite steels , kevlar clutches , final drive , shift kit,3500 stall TC, Tourqe Wonder trans chip ($120.00 2gnt price only!!email for order info)
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