I want to redo my system. I have a 15" Eclipse sub that I'm going to make a box for molded into the one side of the hatch area. What I don't know is how I can mount the amps. I need to keep my spare and I want to have trunk space. I was thinking about mounting them on the back of the seat and then just building a cover that is cut on a diagonal that covers them up, maiking the back to the rear seat look straight. has anyone done anything like this before? Am I explaining it in a way that is clear enough? Any other suggestions would be helpful, I just want to keep the amps hidden and out of the way so I have trunk space. Thanks in advance for any help, and pictures are always nice to look at too.

97 RS- Runs, but never driven
2000 Subaru Outback- Daily Driver

I didn't keep my spare but I probably could have if I wanted too.

http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions
95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD
93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD
2006 Scion tC

Just make sure you can get plenty of cool air circulated to them or they'll overheat.

Optimus- I guess I should rephrase my statement. I want to not only keep my spare but have the ability to get it out without having to move all my stuff. Thanks for the pictures, I do like your setup and I think I will make a similar cover for mine.

amiller- I was going to hook up 12 volt fans next to the amps to keep them cool. I found some on sounddomain that seem to push alot of air and should get the job done.

I noticed what DJ420 had for his old system. Does anyone have anything similar to that?

97 RS- Runs, but never driven
2000 Subaru Outback- Daily Driver

If you're going to use fans put them on their own power cord with relays switched off the remote turn on lead. Don't use the power lead for your amp, they induce noise.


And there's really no way to put a 15 in your car without having to move it to get to your spare. JL Audio used to make a stealth enclosure for our cars that was installed to the left side of the trunk and carried either a 10 or an 8 in there, no way you can get a 15 in the trunk with the right air space and still access your spare without moving it.

Well I did it before, but that was with a singe amp setup. The airspace was correct except I didn't factor in displacement. Does the shape of a box effect the sound or it air space airspace? I planned to making the box go where the Stealth box went. Maybe you are right, a 15" will be too big but I will try it. I haven't had access to my car for about 2 months now so until I get a chance to look at it and start testing stuff I don't know how it will work out. Thanks for you input thus far.

97 RS- Runs, but never driven
2000 Subaru Outback- Daily Driver

I think a 15 will be too big. If you are doing what I think you are doing then there isn't much space. I am going to build a encloser on the side of the trunk and I'm finding a little difficulty with a 10". But i'm trying to keep everything as small as possible.

http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions
95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD
93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD
2006 Scion tC

My plan is to do this for the box. The left side that sticks out a little back is the area I plan on using. I'm going to find out how far I can come out of the corner and still get my spare out (I will take that big cover piece of wood out). Then I will cut a piece of MDF that sits on the bottom of the hatch area that fits into that corner. Then I will see how high I need to come up for size purposes and then I will cut another MDF piece to fit into the corner at that height, this will be the top of the box. I'm going to make some support pieces, from pine I think, that will hold the top piece up at the correct height. Then I'm going to fiberglass in between the pieces of wood, making the back of the box to the exact dimentions. Once I have a layer done and the shape down, I will take the box out of the car. I'm going to cut a front (with the hold in it) and mount that to the front and then continue to fiberglass through the hole, that way I can make sure everything is air tight. I don't expect it to be easy to do but I think it can be done. When I'm done buiilding it I'm going to wrap it in tan carpet/fabric. I will have to cut a new bottom piece of wood that goes over the spare and when I am done with the amp rack on the back of the seat I will wrap both pieces in the same stuff so it all matches. I'm hoping it will look like stock again. Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming.

97 RS- Runs, but never driven
2000 Subaru Outback- Daily Driver

Im an idiot when it comes to stereos but... if you use the cotton stuffing in the box doesn't it 'increase' air space i.e. can't you use a smaller box with stuffing versus a big open box? If so would it be possible to put a sealed 15 with stuffing in the side of our hatch area?

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Good to know, I guess I just learned something

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

Its not cotton, different, more of a stringy substance, called polyfil. Can get it at walmart and aaron is very correct. It supposed to increase ur air space but basic physics of it say less air travel less space. Needless to say it doesn't work and our company banned the use of it after it caught fire in a cust trunk. I put my amp rack in place of the back rest of the back seat wit 2 jlw6v2's where the seat part of the back seat was. I'm 6'3 nobody could fit in my back seat anyways. Just an idea, i still have all my trunk space. also y are considerin a 15. Cause u think it will hit harder than a 10 or 12 maybe (very common misconception). I discourage people from using 15's unless they are trying to hit very low frequencies from SOUND Q. 10's and 12's beat much faster and usually tend to hit the higher DB. Justa a lil info to help wit ur decision.

Yeah the actual use for polyfil is this: It slows down wave speed inside the box. This is particularly usefuly if you are using a perfectly square box because you will get resonance from refracted frequencies coming from the back of the box and hitting the cone causing a buzzing sound. The polyfil changes the dynamics of these frequencies creating less resonance. This can all be solved by placing a 30degree angled and raked seperation bafle in the box which will break up the interior frequency waves and prevent them from causing a 180 degree phazical wave interference with the cone.

1995 Eagle Talon ESi

Now u see i put in all caps that they are known for SOUND Q, thats sound quality. Exactly what u were tryin to argue about i had already stated. However, a 15" no matter what that wattage is made to beat at a lower frequency (hence ur sound quality), there is no differences in the drivers in any specific line of subwoofer. No matter if its a 8, 10,12,15,18. Only the size of the structure. Now anyone should know that lower frequencies are not louder. a car with a 15" at the appropriate wattage may be able to pull high sound q, however u will be desperately lacking in a DB comp (Decibels, how LOUD basicly). A comparable 12" with appropriate wattage will be louder in DB however will not get that low frequency for sound q. also more excursion is notable form for sound q, there are more variables that work at this too. neways, it doesn't really matter i've been workin in car audio for a very long time now and do know what i'm talking about. I'm not gunna get into some childish debate which has so many variables to it.

DO A CLARION 32"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1995 Eagle Talon ESi